Wednesday, April 18, 2012




What Is Your Plant Zone?

Plant zones are determined by the United States Department of Agriculture to help you determine what will grow best in your area. This is based on average high & low temperatures in a given area. How much rainfall/snow and humidity or aridity can also play a part in whether a plant will “survive” or “thrive” in a given area.  The range of these criteria determines which plants will thrive best there. I say thrive because you can have some plants that can survive there, but may not do well or would need more attention than typically needed. Now if your zone has changed any, don’t rip out your existing plants… they can’t read so they don’t know there may have been changes!

Plants you purchase may have a tag which gives you the plant common name, the botanical name, the light & water needs, height & width and often zone designation. The store/nursery where you purchase your plants from should be bringing in plants that will do well in your area.  This enables you to ensure your plants will thrive in your garden. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can forego the necessities like water & plant food!

Something else you may see on the tag may be the words “annual” (lives for one season; grow, flower & die) or “perennial” (lives all year, but may flower only during a specific season of the year). These designations may not be necessarily true for your area. Some plants that may live all year in your area may actually succumb to the cold or heat variations of another area, but still meet the basic criteria for both areas. This means that a perennial would become an annual; dying off after the season. Rarely have I found annuals that turn into perennials in a milder climate; their flowering season may just extend a bit longer.   I have found that often the tags will say that a given plant is an annual in my area when I know it is a perennial. (Such as a Coral Bells plant, or a Periwinkle.)  This can be because the grower may provide these plants to many regions but it is not monetarily conducive to having separate labels made. This is where your knowledge or the nursery staff’s knowledge can be valuable. They should know their area or have access to the information you need. One word of caution: often the “box” store ( Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.) employees don’t have anything but rudimentary knowledge and even then it may not be correct. They know what they are told and may only be told what will help sell the plant. (The growers buy table space and are in charge of stocking. Often the rep for the grower will come in and rearrange or clean out unacceptable plant material every day so their product looks good.) I am not disparaging the “box” employee; it is a by-product of the nature of their business. A nursery, such as Armstrong, survives on its knowledge & customer service so they must know their product well. Also, a confident nurseryman or woman will not be afraid to say “I don’t know” but a really good one will follow with “But I’ll find out for you!”

 What is great about the new zone map website is now you can access the info by your zip code. Previously, because the map was often printed small, you had to venture a guess which colored area was yours and then find it on the key. This guess work is eliminated with the new map website!

So click on the link for the website at the top of this blog, type in your zip and learn about your area! Happy Gardening!

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Bee Thoughtful!


I know, I know!  Most people run from bees, feel that they are in imminent danger from a lone bee, but the truth is, you’re not. At least not usually! There is always the exception to the rule. Today I am talking about the wonderful honey bee, the one you normally find in your garden, which are environmentally beneficial.

These industrious little buggers are responsible, directly or indirectly, for approximately 3 out of every 4 mouthfuls of food you take.  Yes, that many. They pollinate about 1/6 of the world’s flowering plants and about 400 agricultural plants. It takes about 50-100 flowers for a bee to collect enough pollen to take back to their hive. That’s usually just a single trip… (Maybe the origin of the phrase “busy little bee?”)
It is the worker bee that you normally encounter and they are not aggressive.  I know, they seem aggressive, but only if they feel threatened.  I am the same way, threaten me or mine and it’s on!! Why should bees be any different?  They are protecting themselves and the continuity of their hive. 

Unfortunately these little guys are becoming a bit scarce. There are some concerns about pesticides that affect the bees, either by killing them outright or slowly which allows the bee to introduce the contaminated pollen to the colony.   The pesticides can also affect the plant’s pollen production which in turn may make it useless to the bee, which in turn means less pollinating, which means less flower production leading to fewer seeds which leads to less plants which leads to less flower pollen and then less pollen for the bees….. You see the cycle.  There is also a Varroa mite that affects them by feeding on their bodily fluids (adults, pupal & larval stages) and may carry viruses that can cause body deformities, most notably in the wings. When this occurs they are unable to fly to the pollen and can cause a hive to starve.

Depending on whether you use an insecticide (An insecticide is a pesticide used against insects) or a pesticide (Pesticides are substances or mixture of substances intended for preventing, destroying , repelling or mitigating any pest; including insects, plant disease or weeds.) you should inquire about their usage around bees. Even if the bee isn’t the target, the use of chemicals can be a repellent which causes the bees to go elsewhere. So, when you can, use a biological pesticide (Biological pesticides include naturally occurring substances that control pests). One of these is Spinosad (for white fly, thrips, caterpillars, fire ants, etc.)** If you can, apply these treatments in the evening.  Bees are less likely to be out and less likely to bring it back to the colony. This also applies to any synthetic chemicals you may use. Before using any pesticide/insecticide, check with your local nursery to determine the possible effect on the bee community.

I believe we need to be aware of how we are treating our little honey-makers and treat them with kindness. Remember that the worker bees only sting when provoked.  I worked in a nursery for over 7 years and was stung only once, when I leaned against a pot and smushed a bee. It was self defense on his part, but unfortunately, it was his last act since they don’t live once they’ve stung someone.  Please, teach your children that they are not the enemy. If you stand still they usually go away. If they aren’t, gently wave your hand and shoo them off. If you end up with a hive in or near your home, contact a beekeeper. Often they will come pick up the hive for a small charge or even free.(Check their fees first though) The only time they don’t usually is if it is determined they are Africanized Honey bees, then you need to contact a pest control company for proper removal.

If you wish to attract bees to your yard plant a variety of flowers* that are easy for them to get into. These could be roses, citrus trees, lantana, vegetables and even allowing herbs to flower.  Yes, even weeds attract bees. The best flowers to attract bees are the ones that have open form. This way the bees can get to the pollen easier. Even a source of water nearby; whether a pond, birdbath or even a puddle can help these little buggers survive.

Thank you for taking the time to read this. It is important to all of us, plant, animal and human alike to have bees in our lives!


*An list of possible plants to use: Foxglove, Rockrose, Monarda, Snapdragon, Echinacea, Marigold, Lavender, Yarrow, Rue, Basil, Honeysuckle, Fruit trees, Zinnias, Delphinium, Alyssum, Mint, Borage, Cosmos, Sage, Sunflowers


**Some biological pesticides are: BT, which is a bacteria that is used on various types of insect larvae, such as caterpillers, fleas & mosquitos, to name a few. Also Ladybugs, Green Lacewings, Praying Mantis, Decollate Snails, Beneficial Nematodes as well as Mosquito Dunks. A good place to look up insects and what works on them is at www.Gardeninsects.com. They show the bug itself so if you aren't sure what your little visitor is, chances are it will be here! They do also have a link to www.buglogical.com where you can purchase the beneficial pesticides. Also, check with your local nursery (not home improvement stores) for Ladybugs, Decollate snails & Praying Mantis cocoons, especially during spring and early summer.