Quaking Oat Grass pods

Touchy, Feel-y..... And Tasty? 

Many times we forget we have 5 senses; sight, smell, hearing, taste & touch. We garden for visual pleasure, the fragrance of flowers to delight our noses, birds for our auditory enjoyment and/or food for our bellies. We often forget however that touch is an important part of our world, especially when we were young. Kids reach for everything because they are initially tactile learners. Putting things in their mouth is another version of tactile learning (this is where a food garden would be awesome!)  However a sensory garden is not just for the sensory impaired or children...  I have a tendency to touch and smell just about any plant I come across. I do this because it helps imprint the plant in my brain; helps note any peculiarities that it may have in texture and smell. And yes, sometimes I taste them, but I am very careful and make sure I know what it is beforehand.

There are so many plants that have more qualities other than just “smelling good.” There are plants that are soft and fuzzy (Lamb’s Ears) some that rattle (Quaking Grass) and even sticky ones (Sage) that are safe for big or little fingers! You don’t have to change out your garden to incorporate tactile plants, just be cautious of where you incorporate them. If you are working with an existing bed, I recommend placing new plants in toward the front of the beds. That way you don’t have trampled plants and if you have some plants that can be less than friendly they won’t be a surprise to those fingers!

Even in winter, you can still have a tactile based garden. Not everything may go dormant but those that do, unless they have thorns, can be just as interesting. Bark is textured and may have color in it you didn’t notice when it is in leaf. Many have seed pods or dead flowers that have been left on that can be interesting.

Echeveria

You can use succulents. Note I said succulents, not cactus. The terms are often used interchangeably, but are different plants. You want to make sure you don’t use anything with spines, fingers of all sizes would be unhappy to have that encounter!  There are a variety of succulents that have smooth textures, rough ones, oddly shaped and there are even fuzzy ones! I would definitely monitor little hands with these as some are toxic if ingested and some have a sap that can cause a skin reaction.

Pond-less waterfall

Having a sensory garden doesn’t mean you have to be limited by plants. By all means, add wind chimes, bird baths, water fountains, pond or a pond-less waterfall to your tactile garden.  It adds another element and will attract birds, butterflies, moths, lizards to name a few. (Depending on where you live, maybe even rabbits, mice & coyotes so think it through!) If you have small children and don’t have to worry about the larger predators, I do recommend a pond-less waterfall. They are easy to maintain and since they don’t have any true depth, they can be safer for kids. You may need to replenish the gravel or rock in the “pond” area occasionally to keep it from getting any depth that may be dangerous. You can adjust these to be louder or softer, depending on the rock placement, the overhand of the waterfall and even the water pressure. More on that in another blog though!

Whether you intentionally plant a tactile garden, or realize that your current one is tactile they are enjoyable to many people on different levels. So go smell the roses, hug a tree and generally enjoy your garden space!

Suggested plants for a tactile garden:

 Lamb’s Ear – Stachys byzantia- furry leaves

Mint – Mentha (many varieties, check them all out…even chocolate!) Great smells, interesting and some familiar flavors

Quaking Grass – Briza maxima (Also known as Rattlesnake Grass due to its seed pods. They resemble the rattle on the rattlesnake.)

Fountain Grass – Pennisetum setaceum- soft “flowers” on the ends of the blades

Mexican Feather Grass – Nasella tenuissima – soft “flowers” on the ends of the blades

Lavender – Lavendula spp – Fragrant leaves on some, fragrant flowers on others. Slightly sticky plant overall but definitely not unpleasant

Nasturtium –Tropaeolum majus – Lightly grainy leaf, peppery smell and edible leaf and flower

Ferns – Just about any variety – some soft, some fairly stiff and others curly edged or smooth

Bush Strawflower – Bracteantha bracteata- flowers actually feel & sound like straw

Wooly Thyme – Thymus pseudolanuginosus – slightly fuzzy & smells good

Fennel – Foeniculum vulgare – Fronds are soft & airy feeling and they taste pretty good

Dill – Anthum graveolens – soft fronds and an good smell & taste

Marigold – Tagetes spp – strong earthy smell (one of my favorites!)

Kalanchoe behariensis –some are a bit fuzzy, some are smooth

Hens & Chicks – Sempervivum –smooth leave with just a bit of a point at the tip

Edible Sage – Salvia officinalis – slightly sticky with the sage smell and taste

Ornamental Sage – Salvia greggi, S. nemarosa, S. chamaedryoides, just to name a few!

 More sticky, smell of the leaf is pungent, some like it, others do not.

Alyssum -  Alyssum spp – small flower smells like honey

Philodendron – Philodendron selloum – large leaves, some with smooth texture, some with holes in the leave, some with ridges.

Chives – Allium schoenoprasum  - Same ones you can cook with, “blades” are smooth, the flower is a slightly fuzzy ball, and both blade & flower is edible

Calla Lily – Zantedeschia aethiopeca – Smooth petal with a pistil that is soft and pliable. Will leave pollen on your fingers

Gardenia – Gardenia jasminioides – smooth petals, great scent

Woolly Yarrow – Achillea tomentosa – leaves are slightly fuzzy, aromatic and flowers are an interesting texture

Elephant Ears – Alocasia – large smooth leave some with ridged veins, some with wavy edges

Basil – Ocimum basilicum – textured leaf, great smell, taste is strong, but good

Oregano – Origanum vulgare – small leaf, good scent and taste

Sweet Marjoram – Origanum marjorana – similar to oregano, bit of a different scent 

and taste

Rosemary –  Rosemary officinalis – strong upright texture, small cylindrical leaf and pungent aroma & taste

Chenille plant – Acalypha hispida – flower is an interesting long shape with a soft texture

Fuchsia – Fuchsia hybrid – Also known as Lady’s Earring – flowers are smooth, but with an interesting shape, some have a light fragrance

Fruit trees – I don’t recommend Citrus as many have thorns.

Strawberries – Fruit of course!

Blueberries – Again, the fruit!


Many of the berry vines have small thorns so I did not list them here. They can be used, just be cautious and use them more for sight & taste than touch.

Corn – The actual edible variety. The stalks grow tall, somewhat coarse, the rustle of the leaves and the feel of the corn itself is altogether interesting.

Bamboo – the plant’s leaves make an interesting sound and the bark is smooth

I DO NOT RECOMMEND TOMATOES. THEIR FOLIAGE CAN BE TOXIC TO ANIMALS (AND TO HUMANS IN LARGER QUANTITIES.) THEY ARE PART OF THE DEADLY NIGHTSHADE FAMILY 

The After Hours Garden…..     

     

So you think because its dark when you get out of work you can’t enjoy a beautiful garden? What if you had a garden that worked with your late schedule?  It can happen with a moonlight garden! Imagine being able to relax in your garden after a day’s commotion: you’ve got a glass of wine and are taking in the tranquility of your garden enjoying the fragrance and beauty of the flowers in the lower light. This type of garden consists of plants with flowers and foliage in whites, grays, pastels and blue greens (a list of possible plants are at the end of this posting) which are easy to see in the light of the moon or even by ambient light from nearby fixtures. Street lights, porch lights or even landscape lighting can create that relaxing or even romantic ambience you’ve been looking for.

A moonlight garden is one of the easiest to plant because you can incorporate it into any existing landscape. No need to tear out what’s already there (who doesn’t like to save money??) just add a little extra flair with a few new plants. Just make sure the new plants and existing plants in the bed have the same requirements for sun or shade and water.

Hummingbird hawk moth

By planting a moonlight garden you will see some critters that come out at night to feed or pollinate the plants. You might see the sphinx or hawk moth, the Luna moth as well as some bats, fireflies (depending on your region) and a range of night birds. Consider adding paving stones or boulders if appropriate and a source of water; such as a shallow bird bath or a couple of plant saucers filled with water. This gives your night crew a little help in their work!

                                                                                                  

The best way to get started would be to first, figure out where you may want your seating area to be. Look at the existing plantings and decide where you can incorporate some new plants and mark those areas; I recommend using something light colored because you will come back out at night to view this area again and you want to be able to see where the new plants may go in. You may need to relocate some existing plants to get the effect you want. Once you have your design, the next step is to purchase your plants and dig them in. (The fun part & one of my favorite!)

Now, this doesn’t mean you can’t start a whole new planting bed to create your moonlight garden. That’s even easier to do! You can choose which plants you want, place them where they are most aesthetically pleasing to you, step back to view the effect and then dig them in! As always, make sure the plants meet the existing light & water of that area.

  

The use of fragrant plants is important to the overall effect too. Sitting outside, sipping your favorite refreshment and smelling rose,honeysuckle or my favorite – Night blooming Jessamine, can be a very relaxing experience. Just the thing when a trip to the spa is just not on the agenda!

Even if you only incorporate a few plants, it still makes your garden a 24/7 kind of place! Involve the kids and add a few touches of whimsy to the moonlight garden. How about a couple of dancing toad statues? Or garden gnomes? There are also some interesting garden lights that operate by solar panels*, they light up just enough to see and lend a little light to see your plantings.

Whatever you do, enjoy the process and your imagination is the limit. Your garden can be your own “staycation destination!”

*Check out these websites for some interesting garden art

www.gardeners.com

www.gardenfun.com

 “Moonlight” plants to check out

Artemisia -“Powis Castle” Gorgeous silver foliage, kind of feathery. The leaves have an interesting scent, another favorite of mine

Evening primrose – Oenothera biennis- Pretty flowered groundcover, can be invasive, so check with your nursery about the varieties in your area.

Honeysuckle – Lonicera japonica- a climbing vine needs some sort of support if you don’t want it trailing on the ground.

Nightblooming Jessamine – Cestrum nocturnum * a note of caution: this plant can be overwhelming for some people. Its fragrance has been known to travel over a few blocks. There is a variety with pinkish purple flowers that has a kind of rubbery fragrance, I don’t recommend it.

Lamb’s Ear – Stachys byzantia – silvery soft leaves with a pink or yellow flower.  I prefer it for its foliage rather than flowers.

Lavender – Lavendula angustofolia –“Hidcote” has silvery foliage so it will stand out more. The soft lavender flowers are a plus.

Nicotiana – Nicotiana sylvestris or S. alata- These two varieties are the most fragrant, but also pretty tall (4-6’) so I recommend either towards the back of your garden or if you have it in an open area, towards the middle.

Roses – white, pastel pink, lavender, yellow are good colors, another good way to add fragrance into your garden. Make sure prior to purchasing that they do have fragrance. Some growers sacrifice scent for unique coloring.

Impatiens – Use the lighter colors. These are shade annuals in most areas so be aware you will lose them in a season.

Angel’s Trumpet – Brugmansia versicolor – Gorgeous huge trumpet shaped blossoms that are fragrant evening and early morning.

Also look for trees with silvery blue foliage such as acacias, pines or junipers  or with variegated leaf like the ficus r.a.”Variegata; Japanese maple such as “Butterfly”

 bulbs like Iris, Gladiola, and Ixia can be used for a dramatic effect. Don’t forget vines like Potato vine, Clematis, Passionflower, bougainvillea and trumpet vines. Even groundcovers like Gazania & Snow-in-Summer work well.  Variegated foliage like Hostas, Silver Dragon Mondo grass to name a few.  Even succulents & cactus can work in your moonlight garden.

What Is Your Plant Zone?

Plant zones are determined by the United States Department of Agriculture to help you determine what will grow best in your area. This is based on average high & low temperatures in a given area. How much rainfall/snow and humidity or aridity can also play a part in whether a plant will “survive” or “thrive” in a given area.  The range of these criteria determines which plants will thrive best there. I say thrive because you can have some plants that can survive there, but may not do well or would need more attention than typically needed. Now if your zone has changed any, don’t rip out your existing plants… they can’t read so they don’t know there may have been changes!

Plants you purchase may have a tag which gives you the plant common name, the botanical name, the light & water needs, height & width and often zone designation. The store/nursery where you purchase your plants from should be bringing in plants that will do well in your area.  This enables you to ensure your plants will thrive in your garden. Of course, this doesn’t mean you can forego the necessities like water & plant food!

Something else you may see on the tag may be the words “annual” (lives for one season; grow, flower & die) or “perennial” (lives all year, but may flower only during a specific season of the year). These designations may not be necessarily true for your area. Some plants that may live all year in your area may actually succumb to the cold or heat variations of another area, but still meet the basic criteria for both areas. This means that a perennial would become an annual; dying off after the season. Rarely have I found annuals that turn into perennials in a milder climate; their flowering season may just extend a bit longer.   I have found that often the tags will say that a given plant is an annual in my area when I know it is a perennial. (Such as a Coral Bells plant, or a Periwinkle.)  This can be because the grower may provide these plants to many regions but it is not monetarily conducive to having separate labels made. This is where your knowledge or the nursery staff’s knowledge can be valuable. They should know their area or have access to the information you need. One word of caution: often the “box” store ( Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.) employees don’t have anything but rudimentary knowledge and even then it may not be correct. They know what they are told and may only be told what will help sell the plant. (The growers buy table space and are in charge of stocking. Often the rep for the grower will come in and rearrange or clean out unacceptable plant material every day so their product looks good.) I am not disparaging the “box” employee; it is a by-product of the nature of their business. A nursery, such as Armstrong, survives on its knowledge & customer service so they must know their product well. Also, a confident nurseryman or woman will not be afraid to say “I don’t know” but a really good one will follow with “But I’ll find out for you!”

 What is great about the new zone map website is now you can access the info by your zip code. Previously, because the map was often printed small, you had to venture a guess which colored area was yours and then find it on the key. This guess work is eliminated with the new map website!

So click on the link for the website at the top of this blog, type in your zip and learn about your area! Happy Gardening!

Bee Thoughtful!

I know, I know!  Most people run from bees, feel that they are in imminent danger from a lone bee, but the truth is, you’re not. At least not usually! There is always the exception to the rule. Today I am talking about the wonderful honey bee, the one you normally find in your garden, which are environmentally beneficial.

These industrious little buggers are responsible, directly or indirectly, for approximately 3 out of every 4 mouthfuls of food you take.  Yes, that many. They pollinate about 1/6 of the world’s flowering plants and about 400 agricultural plants. It takes about 50-100 flowers for a bee to collect enough pollen to take back to their hive. That’s usually just a single trip… (Maybe the origin of the phrase “busy little bee?”)

It is the worker bee that you normally encounter and they are not aggressive.  I know, they seem aggressive, but only if they feel threatened.  I am the same way, threaten me or mine and it’s on!! Why should bees be any different?  They are protecting themselves and the continuity of their hive. 

Unfortunately these little guys are becoming a bit scarce. There are some concerns about pesticides that affect the bees, either by killing them outright or slowly which allows the bee to introduce the contaminated pollen to the colony.   The pesticides can also affect the plant’s pollen production which in turn may make it useless to the bee, which in turn means less pollinating, which means less flower production leading to fewer seeds which leads to less plants which leads to less flower pollen and then less pollen for the bees….. You see the cycle.  There is also a Varroa mite that affects them by feeding on their bodily fluids (adults, pupal & larval stages) and may carry viruses that can cause body deformities, most notably in the wings. When this occurs they are unable to fly to the pollen and can cause a hive to starve.

Depending on whether you use an insecticide (An insecticide is a pesticide used against insects) or a pesticide (Pesticides are substances or mixture of substances intended for preventing, destroying , repelling or mitigating any pest; including insects, plant disease or weeds.) you should inquire about their usage around bees. Even if the bee isn’t the target, the use of chemicals can be a repellent which causes the bees to go elsewhere. So, when you can, use a biological pesticide (Biological pesticides include naturally occurring substances that control pests). One of these is Spinosad (for white fly, thrips, caterpillars, fire ants, etc.)** If you can, apply these treatments in the evening.  Bees are less likely to be out and less likely to bring it back to the colony. This also applies to any synthetic chemicals you may use. Before using any pesticide/insecticide, check with your local nursery to determine the possible effect on the bee community.

I believe we need to be aware of how we are treating our little honey-makers and treat them with kindness. Remember that the worker bees only sting when provoked.  I worked in a nursery for over 7 years and was stung only once, when I leaned against a pot and smushed a bee. It was self defense on his part, but unfortunately, it was his last act since they don’t live once they’ve stung someone.  Please, teach your children that they are not the enemy. If you stand still they usually go away. If they aren’t, gently wave your hand and shoo them off. If you end up with a hive in or near your home, contact a beekeeper. Often they will come pick up the hive for a small charge or even free.(Check their fees first though) The only time they don’t usually is if it is determined they are Africanized Honey bees, then you need to contact a pest control company for proper removal.

If you wish to attract bees to your yard plant a variety of flowers* that are easy for them to get into. These could be roses, citrus trees, lantana, vegetables and even allowing herbs to flower.  Yes, even weeds attract bees. The best flowers to attract bees are the ones that have open form. This way the bees can get to the pollen easier. Even a source of water nearby; whether a pond, birdbath or even a puddle can help these little buggers survive.

Thank you for taking the time to read this. It is important to all of us, plant, animal and human alike to have bees in our lives!

*An list of possible plants to use: Foxglove, Rockrose, Monarda, Snapdragon, Echinacea, Marigold, Lavender, Yarrow, Rue, Basil, Honeysuckle, Fruit trees, Zinnias, Delphinium, Alyssum, Mint, Borage, Cosmos, Sage, Sunflowers


**Some biological pesticides are: BT, which is a bacteria that is used on various types of insect larvae, such as caterpillers, fleas & mosquitos, to name a few. Also Ladybugs, Green Lacewings, Praying Mantis, Decollate Snails, Beneficial Nematodes as well as Mosquito Dunks. A good place to look up insects and what works on them is at www.Gardeninsects.com. They show the bug itself so if you aren't sure what your little visitor is, chances are it will be here! They do also have a link to www.buglogical.com where you can purchase the beneficial pesticides. Also, check with your local nursery (not home improvement stores) for Ladybugs, Decollate snails & Praying Mantis cocoons, especially during spring and early summer. 

Christmas in Carthage

I was fortunate enough to spend time in upstate New York, Carthage area at Christmas.  I fell in love with the place!  It has all the small town ambiance you could ask for and then some....in my opinion.  I thoroughly enjoyed the architecture of the town, especially the older downtown sections.  They do not make buildings with that kind of character anymore.  Many of the homes were of the older 2 & 3 story Victorian-ish (can you tell architecture knowledge is not my forte?) type of homes.  Of course, with the snow comes the very Dickensian look to the whole town as well.  In the middle of some neighborhoods you would find an old graveyard, about 15-40 headstones right next to someone's yard.  I loved those too!

One of the other things I enjoyed was of course, the landscape.  You don't have to have flowers to make it a beautiful yard. Just appreciating the textures associated with snow-covered foliage is good.  There were pines, deciduous shrubs and trees, low-growing junipers, grasses, cattails and tree stumps.  They all made for some interesting shapes and landscaping.  One of my favorites was a tree stump top covered in snow.  Also a small pond behind my daughter's place that had frozen over. Along with the frozen water there were rocks & grasses growing around it.

 
I cannot wait to visit again, hopefully in summer or fall.  One of the things that I encountered in Carthage was the fact that there wasn't as much traffic noise as we get here in California.  Maybe it was where my daughter lived, but the silence of the area was calming. Oh, you have your birds, kids and the occasional car, but it was nothing like here in Cali! My ears enjoyed the reprieve and were very shocked when I flew back home! The difference between So Cal and Carthage was incredible and LOUD!  All in all though, I love both places and will have to figure a way to enjoy both on a regular basis!

Oh Christmas Tree!

I know, I know, it’s a bit early, even for me, to be talking about Christmas trees. My kids will tell you that it is a sure sign I’m slipping if I even CONSIDER a Christmas tree, decoration or gift buying before the second week of December! However, I know many people buy their trees shortly after Thanksgiving so I thought I should bite the bullet and hope this blog will be seen before people buy their Christmas trees.

Now, some people swear by a real cut Christmas tree (namely me!) and some swear by an artificial tree. Both sides have valid reasons and I am not here to change your mind, just educate it a bit!  There are exceptions, such as allergies, that make it difficult to have the real thing.

Many of the arguments about purchasing a cut Christmas tree is the argument that you are “killing” trees & destroying the environment, they use too much water to grow & they are a hazard because they dry out too quickly. Well, let me give you a few insights to these arguments. Yes, they are technically killing the tree. However, this tree was specifically grown to be cut down. It is considered a commodity and provides a living to the tree farmers and their employees. (Many of the Christmas tree growers in the United States belong to a nonprofit organization that promotes sustainable practices and environmental consciousness.)  The tree’s life cycle is beneficial in a several ways. It helps provide oxygen as well as erosion controls for tree farms that utilize otherwise un-farmable land such as steep hillsides and under power lines. They also provide shelter and sustenance to wildlife.  At the end of their holiday use, they can be turned into mulch by the local communities or used to provide habitats for aquatic life by being submerged in lakes and ponds. This is just a brief overview of the life cycle of the cut Christmas tree.  If you are conscientious about where and from whom you purchase your tree from you will feel better about purchasing that “real” tree!

Proper care of the cut tree once you bring it home goes a long way towards keeping it green and beautiful looking. It is important to remove about a 2-3 inch length of the trunk prior to placing in water. This ensures better liquid uptake. Try not to bruise the trunk or getting the cut dirty. Water should be given daily, sometimes even twice a day if tree stand well is shallow. Spraying the tree with an anti-transpirant (a compound that inhibits the loss of moisture through the leaves without compromising the exchange of oxygen & carbon dioxide) prior to bringing inside can also help keep it green longer. The anti –transpirant is a good idea on any fresh cut greenery you may place in your home. Spray it after submerging the greens in water to fully hydrate them. If you are putting the cut greens in a vase, add some glycerin to the water to help keep the needles soft and green.

The trees you purchase as “live” (still have their roots and are in a container) are another good way to help the environment. They provide many of the same benefits as noted above, but they also provide year round beauty in your yard! These should be thoroughly watered prior to bringing in the house. Over the next weeks you need to check the top 2-3 inches regularly to determine if they need additional water.  Remember to place a catch basin under the tree for the water.  Also make sure any containerized tree you may purchase has drainage holes in the container. If you overwater it, it won’t be sitting in standing water, lethal to many plants.

Now, on to artificial trees! They can be beautiful, allergy free, easy to set up, relatively mess free, you pay once and you’re done, a wise investment many say. However, they are often made of PVC and metal. Sounds fairly harmless, right? Many of those that are manufactured outside of the US contain lead. They must have a label noting that they may contain lead.  As these trees age, they expose the household to lead as well as other carcinogens. The older the tree, the greater the exposure can be. Now, I’m not trying to scare you away from artificial trees. There are gorgeous and safe ones out there. I just want to point out some things you might want to check for prior to purchasing one, or check your existing one for country & date of manufacture to determine whether it is safe or you are due for a new one.

So whether you purchase an artificial tree or a live cut tree is up to you. I hope I’ve provided food for thought and information for whichever you decide. Whichever you decide, enjoy! This is a happy season!

To Leave or not leave?

Many people think that removing all the debris in their plant beds is a necessity. Not so! It is more of an aesthetic choice than a beneficial one. Now, I'm not saying don't remove the weeds. They should be to prevent them taking over (unless you like them!) I am saying that removing leaves and grass clippings can cause more weeds, erode your soil and deplete soil nutrients faster by exposure to sun and wind. It will also speed up moisture loss by your soil when exposed like this. If you allow leaves and grass clippings to stay in place they will decompose and add nutrients to the soil, help slow water loss and deter many of the weeds that thrive in the sun. I'm not saying this is foolproof, just that it is an organic way to keep your garden healthy and less dependent on chemicals.

Visually, leaves that have turned fall colors can add impact to a landscape that at this time of year might otherwise be a bit drab. You don't have to leave them in large pieces. Rake them up, place them in a clean empty trash can then insert your weed eater and turn it on.This will coarsely chop them and then they can be used as a top cover in your planter beds. Yes, its a little more work, but the outcome is beautiful and beneficial! In spring you mulch them into the soil and let them add nutrients to the soil.