Plants: Nature’s Air filters!

                     Part 2 of ‘Green House’ In your Home

In part one I went over the process of finding the right plant and pot for your indoor plantscape. Now, on to the benefits of plants in the home!

First, there’s the aesthetic value; homes look ‘homier’ when they have a few plants here and there. (It’s not just for hippies anymore!) It’s a proven fact that when you incorporate greenery into your home and office it decreases anxiety, lowers blood pressure and gives you a moment of serenity in the midst of your day.

Sanseveria

Secondly by using plants you can create an atmosphere for your home or office. If you want to create a luxurious look you use pots that highlight your décor and give a richer feel to the room. For example, if you were going for a contemporary look for your surroundings, you might use monochromatic pots in colors that have been incorporated into your scheme or use these pots for the color in the scheme. Black & chrome, while beautiful is cold, adding monochromatic pots in a splash of color like burnt orange or a rich blue can add warmth. You would then use a structural type plant to continue the contemporary theme, such as a Sanseveria or a Phormium. They are also useful in creating a ‘theme’ such as Victorian or Southwestern. Victorian would utilize more ornate or sculpted pots with more upright plants, such as a Parlor Palm or Aralia. For a Southwestern theme the go-to pot type would be terra cotta pots; available in a variety of shapes & sizes or utilize painted pots with either Southwestern motifs or in Southwestern colors such as turquoise, peach, white, black, red, green and yellow. The plants for a Southwestern theme can be obvious such as succulents and cacti or you can use geraniums, dracaena, cordylines and strappy leafed plants like the Spider plant.

Aralia

And third, they help clean the air around you. You know that plants take in carbon dioxide and water then give off oxygen. Well, within that carbon dioxide, there are toxins or VOC’S (volatile organic compounds) that are emitted by everyday items such as carpet, wood furniture, toilet paper, personal products, cleaning products, insulation and more. Formaldehyde is just one that is found on a regular basis in the home. You will find it in carpet, plywood, and foam insulation just to name a few. There are also benzene, toluene, and trichloroethylene; sound scary, don’t they? These are common toxins found in common household items as well as just about any building you go into. They are given off, in minute amounts, but constant, every day, every hour and we are inhaling them daily. While some of these chemicals occur naturally, because they are concentrated into products or paired with other chemicals that can increase their volatility.

Pothos

While we can’t eliminate our exposure to these items (unless you own a mountain top or island and don’t mind living au natural!) but you can help lessen their impact on your environment by not only using products that have been certified as low or no VOC  but by placing plants in your environment to help cleanse the air.  A short list follows with plant names of the most common that work on the toxins I noted above. The general idea is 1 plant (in about a 6 inch pot) for every 100 square feet of area. Even in the bathroom! Yup, you have products in there that emit toxins and the right plant will thrive in the humid environment! Just remember, they don’t necessarily like drafts from the heater or air conditioner so be mindful of where you place them.

I hope I didn’t alarm you or make you fearful of your environment. That was not my intention but I did want to alert you to the things that are around you that while you can’t see them, they can be harmful especially if you are sensitive. Please don’t go crazy trying to figure out what plant you need in your home in relation to what toxins you may have. I gave you the information about toxins and their product origin so you have an idea of what the plants can do for you! Plants are wonderful little workhorses that can work wonders for your life!

Happy “indoor” gardening!

Mary

‘Indoor’ plants for your health. This is not a complete list, just a starting point!

Plant                                         Helps with VOC’s from

Aloe                                     Paints and cleaners

Ficus                                    Furniture & carpets

Spider Plant                         Solvents used on leather, rubber and in the print industries

Mother in law’s tongue         Cleaners, toilet paper, tissues, personal 

                                            care products  Perfect for the bathroom!

Chrysanthemum                    Paint, plastics, glue, detergents (needs bright light)

Ficus                                    Furniture & carpeting

English Ivy                            Airborne fecal matter (never knew!)

                                                  Again, great for the bathroom

Warneck dracaena               Varnishes

Heartleaf Philodendron         Particle board (desks, tables, cupboards) Caution though, toxic if eaten so keep away from kids/animals

Plant A “Green” House!

Planting indoors for comfort and beauty

 (Part 1)  

     

                                               

Parlor Palm

Even if you live in a warm climate like southern California, you may want to embellish your interior with plants. There are many relatively easy to grow “indoor” plants and in the “Pages” section I have a list of easy indoor plants.  If you live in a colder climate, you may want indoor plants to remind you of coming spring, give you an emotional lift, supplement your spices or even use them to help purify the air.  (More on that in another blog.)

"Zebra Plant"

Now, I put the indoor word in quotation marks because if you really think about it, there is no such thing as “indoor” plants! ALL plants originated outside; whether in soil, hanging in trees (epiphytic), in rock crevices or in water. The plants that we typically use as indoor plants are plants that can survive and possibly thrive in lower light; shade plants are a good example of this. If you look at where the shade plants originate, you’ll see that they are usually understory plants which are plants growing in the shadow of another plant or in a jungle or forest setting. There are even cacti & succulents that grow in the shadow of bigger cacti & succulents to protect them.

   

Dracaena deremensis

The first step in figuring out the best plant for your interior is to determine not only where you want to place it, but to determine how much light you have in the area and for how long. You don’t need any fancy light meter, although if you have access to one, use it!  Watch the area throughout the day and determine what times the area has the brightest light. Then I place a piece of white paper on a surface in the area (floor or table, it doesn’t matter) and hold my hand over it. If I see a shadow of my hand, then this is roughly equivalent to 100 foot candles,( a “foot candle” is the unit of measurement used to determine the intensity of light) enough for your basic indoor plant.  This is a really basic test and I advise it if you are going to be happy with simple plants. If you are going to want something showier I advise you use a light meter of some sort if you are unsure of how much light you have there. (If it is bright enough to sit there during the day and read then you probably won’t need a light meter!) You can take chances on plants if you feel you have sufficient light for showier foliage. There are times that I try out a plant, just simply because I fell in love with it and figured if it didn’t work there, I’d have another place for it! Be aware that if you decide to grow an edible plant (like herbs or fruit) indoors, the criteria is a bit different. They need more light and a bit more warmth, but definitely you want to protect them from drafts, hot or cold.

Once you have determined what your basic light is, now you can figure out your plant needs/wants. The list on “Pages” is a good place to start or go to a reputable indoor plant nursery and ask questions. Be prepared to answer questions about light, basic temperature of home, office or building you will be placing it, drafts, window proximity and possible plant locations. They ask questions so they can better direct you to the proper plant.  I prefer going to a nursery that utilizes a staff that is not only knowledgeable but passionate about their craft. This type is more likely to be interested in making sure you get the proper plant for the area and the info you need to take care of it. If you don’t have a nursery in your area like that you can research the plants yourself, use one of the houseplant books I suggested or contact me, I’d be happy to answer questions for you!

"Soilless" potting mix

In selecting your soil, you may want to use a soilless mix or you can go with a basic indoor potting soil. You want a soil that will drain well but not too fast. Potting soils typically have some peat, some organic compounds and some perlite for drainage as well as a soil (or dirt). A soilless mix is one that utilizes raw materials such as peat, coir or compost in addition to other organic materials and possibly fertilizer. The advantage of a soilless mix is that you don’t bring in any bacteria as you would with bagged or garden soil and can be lighter than a typical potting soil. As long as the potting medium is good quality, you should be okay with either. Try to stay away from any that have fertilizer mixed in already. Until you know what your plants needs are, the added fertilizer may not be the best for it, or it may not be dispersed at the best time. Many of the “enhanced” soils use a basic 12-12-12 fertilizer that is released every time you water. This is okay for plants that actively grow and flower throughout a season, but indoor plants may not flower at all, have different needs when it is time for them to flower (like orchids) or utilize an acidic  fertilizer. The constant use of fertilizer can compromise the integrity of the cell walls within the plant and create other issues. In my experience, this holds true for outdoor plants as well. Plants have a cycle for a reason and disruption of it can cause it to weaken or become susceptible to disease. An example is holiday plants or novelty plants; they are force grown to look the way they do and unless you really want to be vigilant with them, chances are they won’t last too long since you are not duplicating the conditions  they are used to.

Blue enameled pot

The next step, once you have selected your plant and the soil, look for a pot that gives that last touch to your plantscape! Whether tall, short, bushy, vining or hanging, you must have the appropriate pot. For tall plants I recommend to get a pot that has a wide base so that it isn’t easily tipped over. Normally I recommend wider bases on all potted plants, indoors or out because the plants’ root system will benefit from more room at the base of the container as it grows. Your typical “V” shaped container is okay for slower growing plants, such as succulents & cacti or outdoor annual type plants (pansies, for example). Make sure it has a drainage hole and get a saucer of some type for it. Whether it is matching, clear or contrasting, you want something that will hold some of the runoff water. Too deep and you create a situation for a smelly pot, too shallow and it may run over and stain what it is sitting on. The exception to the deeper saucer is if you have a plant that needs a bit of humidity and it is recommended you place the pot on a bed of pebbles and add water occasionally to create some humidity. (Humidity to a plant is much lower that what we consider humid. Often they only need a bit of extra water in the air around their leaves a few times a week to be happy. YOU won’t feel a thing!)

Bronzed ceramic pot

Now, if both your pot and plant is large, pot it in place. You’ll want to put down some kind of tarp or paper so that you don’t get soil everywhere. (Even with my best intentions, I spill a little…) Make sure you have a scoop or something to help add the soil around the root ball. Start by measuring the root ball height (base of pot to top of soil line while in the container you bought it in) and measuring the inside of the pot from 1-2 inches below the lip. I use a piece of chalk to mark the inside of the pot to show how much soil I will need to put in before I set in the plant. Then I pour soil into the container to just at the chalk line, tamping lightly as you add soil (so the level doesn’t drop when you water.) In doing this, you aren’t taking the plant in and out of the pot several times trying to get the height correct. I place the plant on top of the soil and make sure that the top or crown of the root ball is about 1-2 inches below the lip of the pot. If it is, then loosen the root ball a bit so that the roots can move outward as they grow. Now use your scoop or hands and start placing soil around the root ball. Lightly tamp it down as you go. You want it compacted but not hard. The reason you leave an inch or two at the top is when you water you don’t want it running off the soil over the edge of the pot. Now water your new plant well until you have water coming out the drain hole. Always water at the base of the plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (this is how fungus & burn marks can happen) and enjoy!

Check the soil every few days initially. Stick your finger in the soil; if it is dry to about 2 inches below the surface, you may want to water lightly. This is the time you’ll be getting to know your plants and determining how often they need to be watered.

If you start getting brown margins on the leaves it could be either not enough water or you haven’t been allowing the water to set before using it to water with and it has created a salt burn on the leaf edge. Another issue may be that it is in the path of a draft and it is drawing the moisture out of the leaf.

African violet

It would be advantageous to look into purchasing a houseplant guide. There are symptoms that the plants will show you that may only need minor corrections in its care. I can’t list them all here, and some are dependent on the type of plant.  One of my favorite houseplant books is “The House Plant Expert” by Dr. D.G. Hessayon. Another good one is Simon & Schuster’s Guide to House Plants.

Happy INDOOR gardening!

Mary

Hummingbird Salvia

Checking out the natives!

Just got back from the Grow Native Nursery Fall Planting Festival at the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden in Claremont, CA. This event helps raise money for the garden and gives us plant nerds an opportunity to wander and enjoy plants without all the extra work! I wouldn't mind having many of the plants they feature! ("Native" is a term used to describe plants endemic (indigenous) or naturalized to a given area in geologic time.)

Wild grape fall color

Admission was free to both the festival and the garden today. I was impressed by the quality of the plants, the amount of information on all the labels as well as the variety of plants. Everything from little four inch pots to 15 gallon trees!  They also have succulent wreaths that are very cool to look at (one of my next endeavors is to create one myself!) and everything is reasonably priced.  I purchased two California Wild grape vines for a fence I'm trying to hide, 2 white sage plants and a hummingbird salvia that is gorgeous when in bloom! By using native plants, once they are established they will thrive in our climate better than a plant that has been acclimatized to our weather patterns here. Once established, many will use less water than their non-native counterparts. The Grow Native Nursery is openWednesday to Saturday, from November to May. 

They had a few guest speakers one of which was a professor of mine; Dave Lannom. Awesome teacher and very funny. Explains things so that you have those "Aha!" moments that make things clearer when you are learning. Rancho Santa Ana hosts events like this throughout the year. Some you need to be a member to attend, many are open to the public, usually for a small fee.

White Sage

So, if you're in the area, check them out. They have a wonderful garden with paths wide enough to use wheel chairs, strollers or wagons if you're taking the kids with you. You can also check them out on the web at www.rsabg.org. 

Fall Color…. It’s not just for trees!

When you think of fall color your mind’s eye goes to all those glorious trees wearing rusts, yellow, reds, even browns. It signals that fall is here, that temperatures are turning chillier and maybe, just maybe there will be snow on the ground soon.

HOWEVER.... in places like in southern California’s San Gabriel Valley where fall color usually means Pansies, Violas, Snapdragons, Primrose, Stock and Dianthus to name a few. Those are flowers that flourish here in what passes for our fall and winter. We don’t have many trees that “turn” and even then, some won’t if there isn’t enough chill. (Many trees that "turn" do better with chillier temps than we often get. It helps them get their gorgeous color. There are exceptions, such as I may be warmer than my neighbors that are only a mile or two away from me. They may have a "microclimate" causing the chillier air. )

Violas with "faces"

Violas look like mini pansies, typically. They definitely have a little face and come in a variety of colors. I think there are more varieties of violas than pansies. Since they are smaller, reaching only about 6 inches in height, they definitely belong in the front of the bed or at the edge of a pot.   

Snapdragon

Snapdragons can be the soldiers of the flowerbeds. They come in a variety of sizes, from 3 foot tall to the midgets at 8-10 inches. They have multiple flowers on a stem, called a raceme (spike to you and me). Although they are on a spike, the bottom flowers on a raceme open first, with the top opening last. They come in vivid reds, oranges, whites, yellows, and pastels. They can take a while to start flowering but once they start, they put on a great show. Be cautious of overhead watering as they are susceptible to rust. Again, regular watering and fertilizing is best to keep them producing through to spring.

Stock

Stock is a flower that smells a bit sweet, kind of old fashioned to me (I think of a   Grandma's face powder.) They come with gray-green leaves. The flowers are on spikes and come in pastels and deeper colors of pink and purple. While they are wonderfully scented, they can look a little raggedy so I don’t recommend placing them front and center unless you want to spend some time cleaning them up.  

Calendula

Calendula, also known as pot marigold is typically a vibrant yellow or orange and the flower head is fairly large. It is the type used in calendula oils, tea and the flower is edible. I like the smell, kind of earthy but not overwhelming. They do need some deadheading to keep them looking nice, but I think they are worth it.

Dianthus

Dianthus is one that smells lightly of clove and is the annual variety of the one that looks like mini carnations that have that stronger clove smell. The annual variety is green leafed and can actually last longer than winter/spring, depending on its location.The flowers are usually simple petalled and can come in a variety of colors, some in two colors or with a contrasting margin. Deadheading is simple and if you want them to be bushy & prolific, I recommend it. 

Primrose

Primrose are a good choice for color in a more shaded area. They usually carry their flowers just above their leaf structure. They can last well into spring, and if their situation is good, early summer! They come in a variety of colors and are beautiful as a border.

Yellow chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums are another fall favorite. Although not technically an annual, the ones you buy from garden centers, home improvement centers and grocery stores aren’t really set up to be a perennial. They have been forced to bloom and unless you want to do a bit of aftercare when their done blooming, you won’t be able to reproduce the effect. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that they can be a bit needy. They come in a variety of fall colors and look great usually until at least Christmas. In order for them to continue looking good you MUST deadhead. Otherwise they just look sad!

Impatiens

Another favorite annual which depending on where you are can actually be a shade perennial. They are Impatiens. They can be simple flower (5 petals or less usually) or double which look like miniature roses. They come in a variety of colors, and are easy care. They definitely need regular water and fertilizing. You can go through them and dead head, although often it’s not necessary. Depending on how much sun they get, they can get leggy so it is a good idea to pinch them back occasionally to keep them bushier.  They do well in pots and are beautiful en masse.

This blog has been mostly about the southern California climates. For the New England areas and other areas that actually have seasons, many of these can be planted, you need to start in mid-summer so that they can do their thing before the first frost hits.

Now is the time to plant many of the late winter/early spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils, crocus, hyacinth. They need the cold of winter to start their process. They can be helped along in the warmer areas by placing them in a paper bag in the refrigerator for about 6 weeks to mimic the winter cold.  If you are in an area that gets an early frost or has actual seasons, they can usually be planted before the first frost to get them to set roots and absorb the cold they need to do their stuff come spring.

Dwarf nandina 

While this blog is more about annual color, don’t forget that trees and shrubs are a good source of perennial color. Some shrubs have foliage that turns color in fall, have interesting seed pods that catch the winter snow and supply food for winter birds and animals. There are some shrubs that have bark that turns a reddish color in winter after losing its leaves.  All these things can add interest and color to your garden, not just flowers.  

Your garden can be interesting all year. It just may be that you are observing it from the warmth of your living room rather than outdoors and that’s okay! From near or far an interesting garden is a good place to let your mind wander and plan for the warmer days!

Happy gardening!

Mary

                                                                 

   Garden Magic!                 

People use illusion every day – make up, hair color or clothing that hides or enhances a given area. In designing your yard, you can use techniques that highlight an area, or hide an area, or fool the eye into thinking there is more or less in an area.

Color:

In using color you can create atmosphere, make the eye follow along a certain path or fool it into thinking there’s more plants or less confusion to an area. It can also give continuity to an area that is both shade & sun but you want symmetry in your design.

You know that certain colors show up in certain lighting better than others. White, light pink, light yellow are just a couple that show up in shade, at night, under moonlight and outdoor lighting very well. They seem to glow, which makes your outdoor space very inviting at night! (One reason is they can attract night critters better, like certain moths.) With their soft glowing color this is a good way to wind down after your day. Variegated foliage that has these colors will also show up and add yet another dimension to your yard.

Vibrant colors; reds, oranges, bright yellows, purples show up beautifully in daytime. These colors use the sunlight and glow as beautifully as those in the moonlight. They stand up and shout “Hey, look at me!”  They are often used for dramatic effect and to uplift the spirits; who doesn’t like a bright blouse or pair of colorful silly socks to change our mood? As I get older, I appreciate oranges and yellows much more than when I was a more “conservative” young mother! It is a way to put liveliness in your life if you don’t want to add to your wardrobe; add a few flowers to your yard and walk outside to get a bit of energy and positive attitude adjustment!

Vinca (Periwinkle) for sun

Impatiens for shade

If you want to design a landscape that is symmetrical on both sides of an area, but have more sun or shade on one than the other; use color to fool the eye into thinking the design follows all the way across. There are many plants that have not only similar color, but shapes that you can pair to create a sense of continuity and flow throughout a design. YOU may know that the plant material is different on each side, but those that weren’t in on the design may not even notice! This is a practical way of getting what you want without fighting the elements.

Telephone poles, utility poles, trunks of tall trees, a neighbor’s ugly shed; these are all things we don’t always have control over and don’t really want to see. Now here’s a solution that won’t remove these things but will help diminish their impact on your view; plant with the intent to distract the viewer’s eye from what you want to ignore. I use colorful flowers, interesting shrubs and artwork to draw the eye away from poles, sheds, etc.   Even if you can’t plant up close and personal to these things to cover them, an eye catching planting bed in the forefront or to the side will lead your viewer’s eye away from these annoyances. Plan to have seasonal and year-round plants in there and the problem won’t catch you by surprise in the winter! You may not go out in your yard year-round, but if you do, you still want the distraction. Remember that the utility company may still need access so if the pole is in your yard, you need to make sure plant material is not at the base of the pole and they can easily walk to it. Even with a planting bed in front, using taller shrubs at the back of the planting bed can hide an access-way to the pole.

"Confetti" bed

The ‘confetti’ look. This is where you place one of every color you like in a planting bed. On a small scale, like a pot this isn’t always bad, but on a large scale it can get overwhelming. Your eye doesn’t know where to rest while it is looking at the design. It will jump from color to color to color.  If you want lots of color, clump like colors together in some sort of pattern or transition the colors from one to the other, like a wave. Start with one color and transition to another that is similar in hue. For instance, start with yellow transition to orange then to red. You get your color fix but your eye can follow and isn’t jumping around. Next time you look at a planter bed see how it makes you feel. There are some that I like even if I may not like all the colors and others that I love all the colors but for some reason it doesn’t work for me.  Chances are it is the placement of the colors.  If there isn’t a good flow to it, it may feel a bit uncomfortable. Step back and evaluate; are the colors in a pattern or random? This can give you an idea of what appeals to you and how to work in your garden. I’m not saying the confetti look is bad; it just is another aspect of design that may not work every time.

Variegated holly-leaf osmanthus

Variegation. One of my favorite things about plants! I love flowers, but flowering times can be limited, they can also be very time consuming; deadheading, fertilizing at appropriate times, staking if needed, it can fill your weekends without you realizing it. I love flowers, I do, but I also appreciate the plant that gives me variegation so I can appreciate the plant for plant sake. The variegation can be in a lot of different shapes, stripes, dots, edging, veining, leaf tips, stems, you name it. With some plants, their variegation can change with the season and air temperature. The Nandina species is like that.  It has leaves that can be green, light green, yellowish and reddish. Come winter if the temperatures drop enough you get copper leaves with interior greenish leaves. Some varieties of Nandina get berries as well, an added bonus!

Variegated plants can work in a moonlight garden, a shady spot, even in full sun. They can be borders, pathways to another area, the shining star of a design. The possibilities are many and the limit of their use is your imagination!

"Living" fence for privacy

“Screening”plants: These are plants used to hide, deter or focus on an element in your design. Used as a screen to hide these can be very effective as a living wall to eliminate a neighbor’s window view into your life, hide an ugly fence, or give the impression that you have no fence at all! Screening plants are also used on older homes to hide the base of houses that have raised flooring and there are vents all around the house. Typically this type of screen is only a few feet high.

Pyracantha with thorns

 As a deterrent there are plants that can be used as a barrier to avoid trespassing issues, keep animals at bay whether in or out of your yard. Often plants like pyracantha or bougainvillea are used because they have thorns and thick growth. I used bougainvillea when there was a junkyard behind a property. Kids were using the low chain link fence as a shortcut into the neighborhood. It stopped the problem once they realized they couldn’t climb over it! It is also helpful if you live on a corner house and don’t want people shortcutting the corner. You don’t necessarily need to use a thorny bush, but something 2-3 feet tall can be a deterrent if used properly such as bordering your property or creating a planting bed that prohibits people from cutting the corner.

If you have a gazebo, fountain, pond or an interesting statue or some sort of artwork, you can plant to focus on it.  Typically you want to highlight such a thing, but sometimes you want privacy (gazebo), or you want to create a particular atmosphere (pond).  Remember less can be more. If you only add a few tall shrubs to a pond or gazebo, you can either enhance the feature or make the eye pass over it to give some privacy, depending on placement. You are not limited to tall shrubs. You can also use bamboo (clumping kind is best), tall grasses, small trees, even fruit trees to create your screen.

Flagstone pathway in a narrow
side yard

Hardscape: This is using concrete, flagstone, brick, rock, etc., to create pathways, raised planter beds, seating areas for your yard. Used properly you can make a small area look bigger by creating pathways and planter beds to allow visitors to wander. A seating area using flagstone can give the illusion of being larger because of the material and often the color. Concrete is great, useful too, but it can be expensive, unless you want to add color to it; it can be monotone and sort of just there without contributing warmth, style or interest.

In using hardscape you need to remember scale. Using something that is too large for the space will throw everything off. Flagstone in a small area may be overwhelmingly large in scale with a small yard. If after you lay it down it looks too large, you can always make smaller pieces by breaking the flagstone. While you may still have the same amount of flagstone, with smaller sized portions, it won’t look as overwhelming.  With brick or rock (or gravel); if the scale is too small on brick, it can look too busy or out of scale. On the other hand, gravel that is too large will be uncomfortable for pathways and a hazard to walk on. I suggest getting samples of what you intend to use, (except concrete unless they are concrete pavers) and place it in the area you want. Step back; look at it, live with it for a few days before you purchase the amount you need so you aren’t trying to remedy a situation after the fact.

So there you have it; “dress” your yard to create the design or image you want. It takes a little bit of forethought, but with what I’ve given you to start with, I think you can do it!

Happy Gardening!

Mary

Ooohhhh, should have read the directions....

I recently read an article on Yahoo about a gentleman that destroyed 40,000 square feet of lawn…. 40,000 square feet! (Depending on where you live, that can be upwards $30,000 or more in sod costs!) He had applied an herbicide that stated that it would also kill grass leaving it unfit for new sod for 6 months.  However, he says that particular information was on page 2 of an 8 page booklet attached to the herbicide. He apparently didn’t read the whole booklet (which is what it is there for) which would have given him basic information, application rates & times, lasting effects and other pertinent information. Chemicals, fertilizers, additives to your landscape are a lot like medicine; you need to read the directions in order to use it effectively! Use these items incorrectly and you could “overdose” your landscape causing harm even death!

I cannot stress how important reading the whole label is! While you may not consider your lawn a weed, the chemical can’t tell that unless it is specifically formulated to NOT damage that particular type of grass. Even then, you may get a temporary discoloration of your lawn or even death if you don’t apply it properly. If you still have questions or concerns, most labels have a helpline you can call for clarity. 

Having said that, I admit sometimes the label can be a bit of a mystery with some of the terms. Here are a few terms you should know:

Non-selective herbicide: Means that it will kill or damage all plant material it comes in contact with! It may say weed killer, but it doesn’t know that you don’t consider your grass a weed.  This is formulated to eliminate most vegetation.

Selective herbicide: Formulated specifically for a particular species or family of plant material. These are made to react to something specific in that particular species, that is unique to it. Even selective herbicides can cause unintentional damage to plants if the spray drifts onto the leaves of a plant you don’t want damaged. If you are using a granular, then be cautious in your distribution. Overthrow with granules can damage plants and you may not have seen the granule land there in the first place. Once it gets watered in, the process has started. 

Pre-emergent: This means it should be applied prior to the particular plant that you want to eradicate showing up. It can be a seed-sterilant that will not allow seeds to germinate.  Note: once a seed starts growing roots, it is no longer a seed and a pre-emergent will not be as effective. It is very important to use this at the proper time, usually noted on the packaging.

Post-emergent: This is for after the plant has either started growing roots or poked its head above ground. It works usually by disrupting some portion of the plant’s nutritional system to kill it. There are some that just outright turn it into a crispy critter (vinegar & salt).

Stinging nettle - leaves are edible when
 steamed

Soil sterilant: This will sterilize the soil completely. This creates a condition where vegetation and often any insects, microbes, beneficial nematodes etc., may not thrive. Some only last a few weeks, some months, some for years! Decades ago it was a common practice to sterilize the soil prior to construction of certain structures and parking lots. The sterilants used could last 50 years or more. If the structure was taken down, the soil was useless for any landscaping unless it was scraped off and replaced.

Toxic: Whether it is toxic to you, to animals, birds, fish, etc., it is a warning that should be heeded! Toxicity can be as mild as a rash or as severe as coma/death. I’m not trying to scare you but the word is used for a reason. Also, contact with the chemical doesn’t mean just with your hands, any part of your skin can absorb a chemical! There are also your eyes, your nose (fumes) and the bottom of your feet.  This is why labels with often tell you to wear shoes, long pants, long sleeved shirts, glasses, etc. Your whole body can conduct the chemical into your system!

Dandelion plant : flowers can be used for wine,
Leaves are edible and roots can be used for
a coffee substitute

If you have an issue with weeds and want to eradicate them, use proactive measures. This can be spending a bit of time once or twice a week pulling what you see; keeping your lawn healthy and not mowing it too low is another way to control weeds. Taller grass can shade the soil, which weeds don’t like and with a healthy root system, it is harder for weeds to establish themselves. When you mow, you will also be removing the flowering portion of the weed which removes its seed making abilities and removing some leaves hinders quite a bit of its photosynthesizing capabilities. This helps kill off the weeds.

Shepard's Purse - a source
of nectar for insects

 Mulching can help in flower beds but you need to layer the mulch at least 3-4 inches for it to be effective. Too little creates a hothouse effect and makes a perfect environment for many weeds. Keep the mulch at least 3-5 inches away from the trunk or stem of any plant. If you don’t you can trap moisture against the stem/trunk and cause it to rot, which in turn can cause disease and/or death of the plant.

There are organic ways to eradicate weeds but you do need to be aware of how they are used and be cautious in applying. For instance vinegar & salt heated together until the salt dissolves then sprayed on the weed is quite effective as a post-emergent control. If you see weeds coming back up, hit them again. It is safe for animals, kids and the wildlife visiting your back yard because it dries quickly and is organic. You may have a smell of vinegar for a couple of hours, but that is less harmful than a chemical.

Common sowthistle - food source for
 beneficial insects

You can use corn gluten as a pre-emergent to sterilize weed seeds in the soil. However, it is a non-selective so it will sterilize any seed in the soil. I recommend this more for established lawns, flower beds, between flagstones, gravel walkways, places where you either have already planted and won’t be adding any seeds to or areas you want to eliminate any seed altogether. Also consider any bulb or corm you plant as a seed unless they have been in the ground long enough to establish roots.

Knowing which type of weed you have can also help you eliminate it. In knowing what you have, you can find out what its needs are and eliminate those. Some weeds like dry, low nutrient soil and some thrive in moist soil. So weed the area then in dry areas water a bit more in that area and add some compost to raise the quality of the soil. In damp or wet soil, see if you can drain it to dry it out some. It may take some time, but changing the composition of the soil can help with weed control. It’s not always foolproof, but it can lead to a better garden.

The type of lawn that you choose can also be a factor in how easy it is to limit weeds. One of the best is St.Augustine. It is hardy, self-repairing and can choke out just about any weed. No it's not the pretty, soft green grass of fairy tales, but in the long run, best for kids, dogs & high traffic. Requires less water & fertilizer once established. It can go dormant in winter, if the temperatures drop low enough.  The softer, greener grasses are beautiful, but also can be very high maintenence. These lawns require more water, more fertilizer, do NOT repair themselves if injured, and are susceptible to more disease than St. Augustine, bermuda and zoysia. These condition can give weeds an upper hand because the grass can stress so easily. They don't always do as well with foot traffic, animals, or sudden temperature changes. This is something to consider when you install a lawn; how much effort you want to put in to maintaining it and what it is being used for. (An injury to a lawn can be from kids running over it continually, dogs racing around, car or bike tires gouges to even mowing a wet lawn & the wheels leave ruts.)

Now, for something one of my professors liked to say “A weed is just a plant growing where you don’t want it to.” This is so true. There is no genus “Weed”, nor a species “Weed.” These plants have botanical names just like the plants you like and want in your garden. Some are beneficial to insects and animals, some are actually have medicinal qualities! They just had the audacity to show up in your yard uninvited!

Happy gardening!

Mary

Water Wise!

Some parts of the country are experiencing record heat temperatures. Many of the plants there are not geared towards the sudden heat and will stress. Here are a few tips to help get them through the heat of summer. This information is for plant material in the ground. The following is for plants in-ground. I address potted plants towards the end of the blog.

Water your plants and especially lawn deeply every few days, rather than every day. Unless they are annuals (plants that live for only a short time, such as pansies, marigolds, impatiens, etc. The showier stuff) which may need water every day depending on their location. (Sun or shade or mixture). As I've said, roots are lazy. If the water is always close to the surface that is where they'll stay. If you water deeply, every few days,      then they will follow the water down further into the soil. By going deeper, they will have added protection from heat and subsequent water loss from the first few inches of soil. That being said, if you notice some drooping or you know that the temp is going to be high, a bit of extra water typically won't hurt.

Water in the morning, whenever possible and always at the base of the plant. Your plant has to perform all its processes throughout the day, so a healthy drink in the am will give it a better chance. A good analogy is if you drank a glass of water before bed, then got up in the morning and worked all day without any additional water during your day, you'd be dehydrated by evening, if not sooner! Even if you are watering every few days, watering in the morning is best. 


When it is hot, plants will "shut down" for a bit to conserve their energies. This means a lot of afternoon and evening watering going to waste. If you have clay soil, cycle your sprinklers. This means running each station only 5-8 minutes, then allowing the next station to run, then repeat with the first. This allows the water time to soak in before it starts over. You have less run off this way. If you do not have more than one station, then allow about 10-15 minutes between waterings to allow the water to soak in. If your water isn't soaking in, allow for more time between stations.


Another way to protect your lawn is during the hotter months, fertilize a month or so before the heat is due and don't cut the grass as low as you do in cooler months. Fertilizing will promote growth and health and the taller grass will shield the roots a bit as well as slow evaporation of water from the soil. (Depending on the grass type, you don't want your lawn any taller than 2-4 inches. )You don't want to fertilize while the heat is on. It stresses the plant; while trying to "digest" the fertilizer, it will also be taking up water and trying to adjust to the heat.(Eat a large meal & then go jogging, same concept.) Also, some fertilizers, especially non-organic ones may have a tendency to release faster in the heat and can burn the root system...which can kill your plant outright or cause enough stress that it declines due to other issues, like heat.

If you are in a drought situation, there are a few ways to supplement your watering; If you run water to get hotter water, capture some of the run off in a bucket and use on your plants. However, NEVER water with hot water! It can hurt your plant. When using a hose to water, test the water first; if it is hot, capture that water until it cools enough to water and use it later. I've also used ice cubes when I have an overabundance from the ice maker in my fridge. If you are truly in need you can catch some of the "gray" water from the last rinse cycle from your washer. Use this only on non edibles and only if you don't use a fabric softener. If you use a water softening unit, do NOT use water from your household taps. Many water softening units contain salts that can kill your plants.

"Drought tolerant" is just that.. tolerant. Not "drought immune." This means that a drought tolerant plant can tolerate drier conditions that many other plants, but it still needs some water to survive. (The exception, to some degree, are succulents/cacti) If you have just planted a drought tolerant plant, it still needs extra water to help it establish and get to the "tolerant" stage. If you don't mind your existing drought tolerant plants looking a bit worse for wear, you can keep the water usage to a minimum. If you want them to do more than survive, give them a bit extra in the higher heat. Be cautious, some plants are designed to decrease their life in the heat and extra water may cause health issues for the plant. Many drought tolerant plants, especially desert varieties have an incredibly wide and deep root system. They do this to capture all available water that may come its way. Since that can be few and far between, they go "dormant" in the heat and too much water at this stage can cause "wet feet" which can rot their root system.

Potted plants are always difficult to determine watering needs one. Depending if they are clay, plastic, ceramic, wood or whatever, is an added factor in watering needs. Some are pretty porous (clay, wood) which can leach water from the soil, so you may need to water more. Some help retain water (thick plastic, ceramic) which can mean you have more leeway. Some pots can heat up too much and cause the water to evaporate quickly and burn the roots (metal, some thin plastic such as nursery pots you buy plants in). These all need to be evaluated individually and since you are on site, it will be up to you. You can also move some of your more susceptible pots to a location that has morning sun and light afternoon shade to help. Also make sure the potting soils you use aren't too porous. If you water and it runs right out of the bottom of the pot, it may need re-potting with a soil that has less sand, peat or perlite to one that has a bit more organic debris or soil.

I hope this helps your garden survive the upcoming months. If you have any questions, concerns or even criticisms, I'm always happy to hear from you!

Mary