Sunday, July 8, 2012

Water Wise!

Some parts of the country are experiencing record heat temperatures. Many of the plants there are not geared towards the sudden heat and will stress. Here are a few tips to help get them through the heat of summer. This information is for plant material in the ground. The following is for plants in-ground. I address potted plants towards the end of the blog.

Water your plants and especially lawn deeply every few days, rather than every day. Unless they are annuals (plants that live for only a short time, such as pansies, marigolds, impatiens, etc. The showier stuff) which may need water every day depending on their location. (Sun or shade or mixture). As I've said, roots are lazy. If the water is always close to the surface that is where they'll stay. If you water deeply, every few days,      then they will follow the water down further into the soil. By going deeper, they will have added protection from heat and subsequent water loss from the first few inches of soil. That being said, if you notice some drooping or you know that the temp is going to be high, a bit of extra water typically won't hurt.

Water in the morning, whenever possible and always at the base of the plant. Your plant has to perform all its processes throughout the day, so a healthy drink in the am will give it a better chance. A good analogy is if you drank a glass of water before bed, then got up in the morning and worked all day without any additional water during your day, you'd be dehydrated by evening, if not sooner! Even if you are watering every few days, watering in the morning is best. 


When it is hot, plants will "shut down" for a bit to conserve their energies. This means a lot of afternoon and evening watering going to waste. If you have clay soil, cycle your sprinklers. This means running each station only 5-8 minutes, then allowing the next station to run, then repeat with the first. This allows the water time to soak in before it starts over. You have less run off this way. If you do not have more than one station, then allow about 10-15 minutes between waterings to allow the water to soak in. If your water isn't soaking in, allow for more time between stations.


Another way to protect your lawn is during the hotter months, fertilize a month or so before the heat is due and don't cut the grass as low as you do in cooler months. Fertilizing will promote growth and health and the taller grass will shield the roots a bit as well as slow evaporation of water from the soil. (Depending on the grass type, you don't want your lawn any taller than 2-4 inches. )You don't want to fertilize while the heat is on. It stresses the plant; while trying to "digest" the fertilizer, it will also be taking up water and trying to adjust to the heat.(Eat a large meal & then go jogging, same concept.) Also, some fertilizers, especially non-organic ones may have a tendency to release faster in the heat and can burn the root system...which can kill your plant outright or cause enough stress that it declines due to other issues, like heat.

If you are in a drought situation, there are a few ways to supplement your watering; If you run water to get hotter water, capture some of the run off in a bucket and use on your plants. However, NEVER water with hot water! It can hurt your plant. When using a hose to water, test the water first; if it is hot, capture that water until it cools enough to water and use it later. I've also used ice cubes when I have an overabundance from the ice maker in my fridge. If you are truly in need you can catch some of the "gray" water from the last rinse cycle from your washer. Use this only on non edibles and only if you don't use a fabric softener. If you use a water softening unit, do NOT use water from your household taps. Many water softening units contain salts that can kill your plants.

"Drought tolerant" is just that.. tolerant. Not "drought immune." This means that a drought tolerant plant can tolerate drier conditions that many other plants, but it still needs some water to survive. (The exception, to some degree, are succulents/cacti) If you have just planted a drought tolerant plant, it still needs extra water to help it establish and get to the "tolerant" stage. If you don't mind your existing drought tolerant plants looking a bit worse for wear, you can keep the water usage to a minimum. If you want them to do more than survive, give them a bit extra in the higher heat. Be cautious, some plants are designed to decrease their life in the heat and extra water may cause health issues for the plant. Many drought tolerant plants, especially desert varieties have an incredibly wide and deep root system. They do this to capture all available water that may come its way. Since that can be few and far between, they go "dormant" in the heat and too much water at this stage can cause "wet feet" which can rot their root system.

Potted plants are always difficult to determine watering needs one. Depending if they are clay, plastic, ceramic, wood or whatever, is an added factor in watering needs. Some are pretty porous (clay, wood) which can leach water from the soil, so you may need to water more. Some help retain water (thick plastic, ceramic) which can mean you have more leeway. Some pots can heat up too much and cause the water to evaporate quickly and burn the roots (metal, some thin plastic such as nursery pots you buy plants in). These all need to be evaluated individually and since you are on site, it will be up to you. You can also move some of your more susceptible pots to a location that has morning sun and light afternoon shade to help. Also make sure the potting soils you use aren't too porous. If you water and it runs right out of the bottom of the pot, it may need re-potting with a soil that has less sand, peat or perlite to one that has a bit more organic debris or soil.

I hope this helps your garden survive the upcoming months. If you have any questions, concerns or even criticisms, I'm always happy to hear from you!

Mary




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