Garden Magic!                 

People use illusion every day – make up, hair color or clothing that hides or enhances a given area. In designing your yard, you can use techniques that highlight an area, or hide an area, or fool the eye into thinking there is more or less in an area.

Color:

In using color you can create atmosphere, make the eye follow along a certain path or fool it into thinking there’s more plants or less confusion to an area. It can also give continuity to an area that is both shade & sun but you want symmetry in your design.

You know that certain colors show up in certain lighting better than others. White, light pink, light yellow are just a couple that show up in shade, at night, under moonlight and outdoor lighting very well. They seem to glow, which makes your outdoor space very inviting at night! (One reason is they can attract night critters better, like certain moths.) With their soft glowing color this is a good way to wind down after your day. Variegated foliage that has these colors will also show up and add yet another dimension to your yard.

Vibrant colors; reds, oranges, bright yellows, purples show up beautifully in daytime. These colors use the sunlight and glow as beautifully as those in the moonlight. They stand up and shout “Hey, look at me!”  They are often used for dramatic effect and to uplift the spirits; who doesn’t like a bright blouse or pair of colorful silly socks to change our mood? As I get older, I appreciate oranges and yellows much more than when I was a more “conservative” young mother! It is a way to put liveliness in your life if you don’t want to add to your wardrobe; add a few flowers to your yard and walk outside to get a bit of energy and positive attitude adjustment!

Vinca (Periwinkle) for sun

Impatiens for shade

If you want to design a landscape that is symmetrical on both sides of an area, but have more sun or shade on one than the other; use color to fool the eye into thinking the design follows all the way across. There are many plants that have not only similar color, but shapes that you can pair to create a sense of continuity and flow throughout a design. YOU may know that the plant material is different on each side, but those that weren’t in on the design may not even notice! This is a practical way of getting what you want without fighting the elements.

Telephone poles, utility poles, trunks of tall trees, a neighbor’s ugly shed; these are all things we don’t always have control over and don’t really want to see. Now here’s a solution that won’t remove these things but will help diminish their impact on your view; plant with the intent to distract the viewer’s eye from what you want to ignore. I use colorful flowers, interesting shrubs and artwork to draw the eye away from poles, sheds, etc.   Even if you can’t plant up close and personal to these things to cover them, an eye catching planting bed in the forefront or to the side will lead your viewer’s eye away from these annoyances. Plan to have seasonal and year-round plants in there and the problem won’t catch you by surprise in the winter! You may not go out in your yard year-round, but if you do, you still want the distraction. Remember that the utility company may still need access so if the pole is in your yard, you need to make sure plant material is not at the base of the pole and they can easily walk to it. Even with a planting bed in front, using taller shrubs at the back of the planting bed can hide an access-way to the pole.

"Confetti" bed

The ‘confetti’ look. This is where you place one of every color you like in a planting bed. On a small scale, like a pot this isn’t always bad, but on a large scale it can get overwhelming. Your eye doesn’t know where to rest while it is looking at the design. It will jump from color to color to color.  If you want lots of color, clump like colors together in some sort of pattern or transition the colors from one to the other, like a wave. Start with one color and transition to another that is similar in hue. For instance, start with yellow transition to orange then to red. You get your color fix but your eye can follow and isn’t jumping around. Next time you look at a planter bed see how it makes you feel. There are some that I like even if I may not like all the colors and others that I love all the colors but for some reason it doesn’t work for me.  Chances are it is the placement of the colors.  If there isn’t a good flow to it, it may feel a bit uncomfortable. Step back and evaluate; are the colors in a pattern or random? This can give you an idea of what appeals to you and how to work in your garden. I’m not saying the confetti look is bad; it just is another aspect of design that may not work every time.

Variegated holly-leaf osmanthus

Variegation. One of my favorite things about plants! I love flowers, but flowering times can be limited, they can also be very time consuming; deadheading, fertilizing at appropriate times, staking if needed, it can fill your weekends without you realizing it. I love flowers, I do, but I also appreciate the plant that gives me variegation so I can appreciate the plant for plant sake. The variegation can be in a lot of different shapes, stripes, dots, edging, veining, leaf tips, stems, you name it. With some plants, their variegation can change with the season and air temperature. The Nandina species is like that.  It has leaves that can be green, light green, yellowish and reddish. Come winter if the temperatures drop enough you get copper leaves with interior greenish leaves. Some varieties of Nandina get berries as well, an added bonus!

Variegated plants can work in a moonlight garden, a shady spot, even in full sun. They can be borders, pathways to another area, the shining star of a design. The possibilities are many and the limit of their use is your imagination!

"Living" fence for privacy

“Screening”plants: These are plants used to hide, deter or focus on an element in your design. Used as a screen to hide these can be very effective as a living wall to eliminate a neighbor’s window view into your life, hide an ugly fence, or give the impression that you have no fence at all! Screening plants are also used on older homes to hide the base of houses that have raised flooring and there are vents all around the house. Typically this type of screen is only a few feet high.

Pyracantha with thorns

 As a deterrent there are plants that can be used as a barrier to avoid trespassing issues, keep animals at bay whether in or out of your yard. Often plants like pyracantha or bougainvillea are used because they have thorns and thick growth. I used bougainvillea when there was a junkyard behind a property. Kids were using the low chain link fence as a shortcut into the neighborhood. It stopped the problem once they realized they couldn’t climb over it! It is also helpful if you live on a corner house and don’t want people shortcutting the corner. You don’t necessarily need to use a thorny bush, but something 2-3 feet tall can be a deterrent if used properly such as bordering your property or creating a planting bed that prohibits people from cutting the corner.

If you have a gazebo, fountain, pond or an interesting statue or some sort of artwork, you can plant to focus on it.  Typically you want to highlight such a thing, but sometimes you want privacy (gazebo), or you want to create a particular atmosphere (pond).  Remember less can be more. If you only add a few tall shrubs to a pond or gazebo, you can either enhance the feature or make the eye pass over it to give some privacy, depending on placement. You are not limited to tall shrubs. You can also use bamboo (clumping kind is best), tall grasses, small trees, even fruit trees to create your screen.

Flagstone pathway in a narrow
side yard

Hardscape: This is using concrete, flagstone, brick, rock, etc., to create pathways, raised planter beds, seating areas for your yard. Used properly you can make a small area look bigger by creating pathways and planter beds to allow visitors to wander. A seating area using flagstone can give the illusion of being larger because of the material and often the color. Concrete is great, useful too, but it can be expensive, unless you want to add color to it; it can be monotone and sort of just there without contributing warmth, style or interest.

In using hardscape you need to remember scale. Using something that is too large for the space will throw everything off. Flagstone in a small area may be overwhelmingly large in scale with a small yard. If after you lay it down it looks too large, you can always make smaller pieces by breaking the flagstone. While you may still have the same amount of flagstone, with smaller sized portions, it won’t look as overwhelming.  With brick or rock (or gravel); if the scale is too small on brick, it can look too busy or out of scale. On the other hand, gravel that is too large will be uncomfortable for pathways and a hazard to walk on. I suggest getting samples of what you intend to use, (except concrete unless they are concrete pavers) and place it in the area you want. Step back; look at it, live with it for a few days before you purchase the amount you need so you aren’t trying to remedy a situation after the fact.

So there you have it; “dress” your yard to create the design or image you want. It takes a little bit of forethought, but with what I’ve given you to start with, I think you can do it!

Happy Gardening!

Mary

Ooohhhh, should have read the directions....

I recently read an article on Yahoo about a gentleman that destroyed 40,000 square feet of lawn…. 40,000 square feet! (Depending on where you live, that can be upwards $30,000 or more in sod costs!) He had applied an herbicide that stated that it would also kill grass leaving it unfit for new sod for 6 months.  However, he says that particular information was on page 2 of an 8 page booklet attached to the herbicide. He apparently didn’t read the whole booklet (which is what it is there for) which would have given him basic information, application rates & times, lasting effects and other pertinent information. Chemicals, fertilizers, additives to your landscape are a lot like medicine; you need to read the directions in order to use it effectively! Use these items incorrectly and you could “overdose” your landscape causing harm even death!

I cannot stress how important reading the whole label is! While you may not consider your lawn a weed, the chemical can’t tell that unless it is specifically formulated to NOT damage that particular type of grass. Even then, you may get a temporary discoloration of your lawn or even death if you don’t apply it properly. If you still have questions or concerns, most labels have a helpline you can call for clarity. 

Having said that, I admit sometimes the label can be a bit of a mystery with some of the terms. Here are a few terms you should know:

Non-selective herbicide: Means that it will kill or damage all plant material it comes in contact with! It may say weed killer, but it doesn’t know that you don’t consider your grass a weed.  This is formulated to eliminate most vegetation.

Selective herbicide: Formulated specifically for a particular species or family of plant material. These are made to react to something specific in that particular species, that is unique to it. Even selective herbicides can cause unintentional damage to plants if the spray drifts onto the leaves of a plant you don’t want damaged. If you are using a granular, then be cautious in your distribution. Overthrow with granules can damage plants and you may not have seen the granule land there in the first place. Once it gets watered in, the process has started. 

Pre-emergent: This means it should be applied prior to the particular plant that you want to eradicate showing up. It can be a seed-sterilant that will not allow seeds to germinate.  Note: once a seed starts growing roots, it is no longer a seed and a pre-emergent will not be as effective. It is very important to use this at the proper time, usually noted on the packaging.

Post-emergent: This is for after the plant has either started growing roots or poked its head above ground. It works usually by disrupting some portion of the plant’s nutritional system to kill it. There are some that just outright turn it into a crispy critter (vinegar & salt).

Stinging nettle - leaves are edible when
 steamed

Soil sterilant: This will sterilize the soil completely. This creates a condition where vegetation and often any insects, microbes, beneficial nematodes etc., may not thrive. Some only last a few weeks, some months, some for years! Decades ago it was a common practice to sterilize the soil prior to construction of certain structures and parking lots. The sterilants used could last 50 years or more. If the structure was taken down, the soil was useless for any landscaping unless it was scraped off and replaced.

Toxic: Whether it is toxic to you, to animals, birds, fish, etc., it is a warning that should be heeded! Toxicity can be as mild as a rash or as severe as coma/death. I’m not trying to scare you but the word is used for a reason. Also, contact with the chemical doesn’t mean just with your hands, any part of your skin can absorb a chemical! There are also your eyes, your nose (fumes) and the bottom of your feet.  This is why labels with often tell you to wear shoes, long pants, long sleeved shirts, glasses, etc. Your whole body can conduct the chemical into your system!

Dandelion plant : flowers can be used for wine,
Leaves are edible and roots can be used for
a coffee substitute

If you have an issue with weeds and want to eradicate them, use proactive measures. This can be spending a bit of time once or twice a week pulling what you see; keeping your lawn healthy and not mowing it too low is another way to control weeds. Taller grass can shade the soil, which weeds don’t like and with a healthy root system, it is harder for weeds to establish themselves. When you mow, you will also be removing the flowering portion of the weed which removes its seed making abilities and removing some leaves hinders quite a bit of its photosynthesizing capabilities. This helps kill off the weeds.

Shepard's Purse - a source
of nectar for insects

 Mulching can help in flower beds but you need to layer the mulch at least 3-4 inches for it to be effective. Too little creates a hothouse effect and makes a perfect environment for many weeds. Keep the mulch at least 3-5 inches away from the trunk or stem of any plant. If you don’t you can trap moisture against the stem/trunk and cause it to rot, which in turn can cause disease and/or death of the plant.

There are organic ways to eradicate weeds but you do need to be aware of how they are used and be cautious in applying. For instance vinegar & salt heated together until the salt dissolves then sprayed on the weed is quite effective as a post-emergent control. If you see weeds coming back up, hit them again. It is safe for animals, kids and the wildlife visiting your back yard because it dries quickly and is organic. You may have a smell of vinegar for a couple of hours, but that is less harmful than a chemical.

Common sowthistle - food source for
 beneficial insects

You can use corn gluten as a pre-emergent to sterilize weed seeds in the soil. However, it is a non-selective so it will sterilize any seed in the soil. I recommend this more for established lawns, flower beds, between flagstones, gravel walkways, places where you either have already planted and won’t be adding any seeds to or areas you want to eliminate any seed altogether. Also consider any bulb or corm you plant as a seed unless they have been in the ground long enough to establish roots.

Knowing which type of weed you have can also help you eliminate it. In knowing what you have, you can find out what its needs are and eliminate those. Some weeds like dry, low nutrient soil and some thrive in moist soil. So weed the area then in dry areas water a bit more in that area and add some compost to raise the quality of the soil. In damp or wet soil, see if you can drain it to dry it out some. It may take some time, but changing the composition of the soil can help with weed control. It’s not always foolproof, but it can lead to a better garden.

The type of lawn that you choose can also be a factor in how easy it is to limit weeds. One of the best is St.Augustine. It is hardy, self-repairing and can choke out just about any weed. No it's not the pretty, soft green grass of fairy tales, but in the long run, best for kids, dogs & high traffic. Requires less water & fertilizer once established. It can go dormant in winter, if the temperatures drop low enough.  The softer, greener grasses are beautiful, but also can be very high maintenence. These lawns require more water, more fertilizer, do NOT repair themselves if injured, and are susceptible to more disease than St. Augustine, bermuda and zoysia. These condition can give weeds an upper hand because the grass can stress so easily. They don't always do as well with foot traffic, animals, or sudden temperature changes. This is something to consider when you install a lawn; how much effort you want to put in to maintaining it and what it is being used for. (An injury to a lawn can be from kids running over it continually, dogs racing around, car or bike tires gouges to even mowing a wet lawn & the wheels leave ruts.)

Now, for something one of my professors liked to say “A weed is just a plant growing where you don’t want it to.” This is so true. There is no genus “Weed”, nor a species “Weed.” These plants have botanical names just like the plants you like and want in your garden. Some are beneficial to insects and animals, some are actually have medicinal qualities! They just had the audacity to show up in your yard uninvited!

Happy gardening!

Mary

Water Wise!

Some parts of the country are experiencing record heat temperatures. Many of the plants there are not geared towards the sudden heat and will stress. Here are a few tips to help get them through the heat of summer. This information is for plant material in the ground. The following is for plants in-ground. I address potted plants towards the end of the blog.

Water your plants and especially lawn deeply every few days, rather than every day. Unless they are annuals (plants that live for only a short time, such as pansies, marigolds, impatiens, etc. The showier stuff) which may need water every day depending on their location. (Sun or shade or mixture). As I've said, roots are lazy. If the water is always close to the surface that is where they'll stay. If you water deeply, every few days,      then they will follow the water down further into the soil. By going deeper, they will have added protection from heat and subsequent water loss from the first few inches of soil. That being said, if you notice some drooping or you know that the temp is going to be high, a bit of extra water typically won't hurt.

Water in the morning, whenever possible and always at the base of the plant. Your plant has to perform all its processes throughout the day, so a healthy drink in the am will give it a better chance. A good analogy is if you drank a glass of water before bed, then got up in the morning and worked all day without any additional water during your day, you'd be dehydrated by evening, if not sooner! Even if you are watering every few days, watering in the morning is best. 


When it is hot, plants will "shut down" for a bit to conserve their energies. This means a lot of afternoon and evening watering going to waste. If you have clay soil, cycle your sprinklers. This means running each station only 5-8 minutes, then allowing the next station to run, then repeat with the first. This allows the water time to soak in before it starts over. You have less run off this way. If you do not have more than one station, then allow about 10-15 minutes between waterings to allow the water to soak in. If your water isn't soaking in, allow for more time between stations.


Another way to protect your lawn is during the hotter months, fertilize a month or so before the heat is due and don't cut the grass as low as you do in cooler months. Fertilizing will promote growth and health and the taller grass will shield the roots a bit as well as slow evaporation of water from the soil. (Depending on the grass type, you don't want your lawn any taller than 2-4 inches. )You don't want to fertilize while the heat is on. It stresses the plant; while trying to "digest" the fertilizer, it will also be taking up water and trying to adjust to the heat.(Eat a large meal & then go jogging, same concept.) Also, some fertilizers, especially non-organic ones may have a tendency to release faster in the heat and can burn the root system...which can kill your plant outright or cause enough stress that it declines due to other issues, like heat.

If you are in a drought situation, there are a few ways to supplement your watering; If you run water to get hotter water, capture some of the run off in a bucket and use on your plants. However, NEVER water with hot water! It can hurt your plant. When using a hose to water, test the water first; if it is hot, capture that water until it cools enough to water and use it later. I've also used ice cubes when I have an overabundance from the ice maker in my fridge. If you are truly in need you can catch some of the "gray" water from the last rinse cycle from your washer. Use this only on non edibles and only if you don't use a fabric softener. If you use a water softening unit, do NOT use water from your household taps. Many water softening units contain salts that can kill your plants.

"Drought tolerant" is just that.. tolerant. Not "drought immune." This means that a drought tolerant plant can tolerate drier conditions that many other plants, but it still needs some water to survive. (The exception, to some degree, are succulents/cacti) If you have just planted a drought tolerant plant, it still needs extra water to help it establish and get to the "tolerant" stage. If you don't mind your existing drought tolerant plants looking a bit worse for wear, you can keep the water usage to a minimum. If you want them to do more than survive, give them a bit extra in the higher heat. Be cautious, some plants are designed to decrease their life in the heat and extra water may cause health issues for the plant. Many drought tolerant plants, especially desert varieties have an incredibly wide and deep root system. They do this to capture all available water that may come its way. Since that can be few and far between, they go "dormant" in the heat and too much water at this stage can cause "wet feet" which can rot their root system.

Potted plants are always difficult to determine watering needs one. Depending if they are clay, plastic, ceramic, wood or whatever, is an added factor in watering needs. Some are pretty porous (clay, wood) which can leach water from the soil, so you may need to water more. Some help retain water (thick plastic, ceramic) which can mean you have more leeway. Some pots can heat up too much and cause the water to evaporate quickly and burn the roots (metal, some thin plastic such as nursery pots you buy plants in). These all need to be evaluated individually and since you are on site, it will be up to you. You can also move some of your more susceptible pots to a location that has morning sun and light afternoon shade to help. Also make sure the potting soils you use aren't too porous. If you water and it runs right out of the bottom of the pot, it may need re-potting with a soil that has less sand, peat or perlite to one that has a bit more organic debris or soil.

I hope this helps your garden survive the upcoming months. If you have any questions, concerns or even criticisms, I'm always happy to hear from you!

Mary

What’s Bugging You?

Spots? Holes? Teeth marks? These are just a few of the indicators that you may have uninvited visitors to your garden. Some are ugly, some are annoying, some just plain obnoxious but some may be necessary. Yup, I said necessary! I’ll be talking about determining what you have, how bad it is and whether you need to do something about it.

Is the damage devastating your plant? With herbs & veggies it’s often a good idea to remove any critter, since these plants are often more susceptible to damage and the damage can get out of hand quickly.  If there are only few handful of leaves that are damaged (say 20% or less) I recommend you just let it go. I say this because often the insects are just passing through and by the time you note the damage, they are probably gone. If this is the case (as it often is with grasshoppers, for example) then spraying or using anything, organic or otherwise is useless. You’ll save time and money and not adding to the existing problem of chemicals in our water table.

Now to determine what it is you are looking for. Is it taking chunks out of the leaf or fruit? Is it leaving marks on your leaves? Is it creating a web or cocoon? Are there ants running up and down the branches?  What evidence the uninvited guest is leaving is a clue to where to look, whether it is a good guest or bad guest and how serious you may need to get.

Grasshopper damage

Chunks: This is an indication that what you are dealing with is a pest with jaws for eating plants. These could be from birds, grasshoppers, locusts, caterpillars, beetles, slugs and snails. Look carefully among the leaves and along the undersides of twigs, leaf stems and branches for these pests. Bird damage is often seen without the culprit being observed doing it and more often on fruit. Of course, different plants and different parts of the country have their own special set of guests, so it is good to look up what pests your plant might be susceptible to. Once you spot the little darlings, see if you can determine what kind of critter it is. A website called Bug Guide is a good starting place if you have trouble. It has a page where you can upload a photo of your "guest" if you don't find it on their website.

You can also spray the plant’s leaves with water and see if anything flies off. Usually grasshoppers will take off and this may be your answer. Grasshoppers, while they can take large bites out of the leaves don’t normally devastate a plant. They munch for a bit and then move on. Now, I don’t know if this is an old wives’ tale or not but I had heard they behave this way because if they stripped the plant, then the birds would be tipped off to their presence and swoop down and they would become dinner! However, this does not hold true for actual locusts, they don’t stop until they’re done. If they were your problem, you'd wake up to nothing but stems....if that!

Usually repeated applications of an organic insecticidal soap helps minimize any unwanted pests. This helps make the leaf unpalatable to them. Certain organic and synthetic mixtures will also have poison in them to kill off the pest. Just make sure you read the label in relation to using around edible plants as well as animals & kids. Remember also that many sprays and systemic treatments can often be non-selective. This means that any critter is fair game…. Good or bad!

Aphids - Can be a variety of colors

Discoloration or markings: Often a plant’s biggest problem is the sucking kind of pest, such as aphids, mites, scale, mealy bug, leaf hoppers, some beetles, leaf miners, just to name a few. Snails & slugs actually scrape the leaf surface to ingest it. These garden crashers will suck the sap out of the leaves, leaving them susceptible to other issues such as fungi, mold and other diseases. This behavior removes the sap from the plant leaf or stem and weakens it. This can cause it to die or creates a new problem such as disease.

Spots on the leaves or fruit can also be an indicator of disease, poor watering practice, chemical burn, fungus or nutritional deficiencies. There are so many possibilities that I can’t cover them all here. When watering, spraying chemicals or fertilizers; try to avoid getting any on the leaves or fruit and spray according to the label directions on strength and time frames. On foliar fertilizers or insecticidal soaps that need to be on the leaf to work, generally you spray early in the day before the sun hits the leaf directly. You want the liquid to dry so that the sun doesn’t turn it into a magnifying glass and burn the leaf. Also, if you spray too late in the day, the liquid may not dry sufficiently and you may create another problem – fungus or powdery mildew. This can happen when the evening/night temps are cool, or humidity is high.

There are ways to control these pests as well as some of the diseases, such as a systemic  or foliar spray for disease control, organic insecticidal soap or beneficial insects such as ladybugs, mantids or Lacewings. There are chemicals that can do this as well, but just remember that often you have to spray at specific intervals for it to be effective. Pay attention to the harvest times if you are using it on your edible plants! Some products can become ineffective if it rains, or if they are hit by the sprinklers. This is not as big an issue as it once was, but read your labels carefully. One of the brands that I think is working at becoming more responsible is Bayer. Yup, the aspirin one. They have a line of home & garden chemicals that are more environmentally responsible than most. If you don’t want to wait for the organics to work or cannot invest a lot of time in the organic route, check out Bayer. They are often carried by home improvement centers and your local nursery. They have one for fruit trees that is only necessary to use once a year (known as a systemic because it is poured at the base and taken up through the roots to the rest of the tree.) A systemic is not normally used on veggies or herbs since they are so short lived however the Bayer product can be used on specific ones and does give which plants it can be used on and harvest time frames. If you don’t find your particular plant, don’t use it until you’ve called their helpline, just to be safe.

Some pests actually work from the inside out. Like the leaf miner and some caterpillars. They tunnel into the leaf or stem and lay their eggs. The larvae hatch and proceed to eat their way through the area. This causes odd markings on the leaves or stems. In more difficult cases you may need to use a systemic, such as the Bayer Fruit Tree or even the Bayer Tree & Shrub systemic to help the plant fight it. Organics would need to be applied when the adult insect is expected to visit the plant to prevent them laying the egg that causes the damage.

Leaf miner damage

On a side note to all that live in So California and are experiencing the Citrus Leaf Miner problem: The Citrus Leaf Miner attacks new growth, so it’s difficult to eradicate. Even using a systemic (such as the Bayer Fruit tree one) can slow it down but rarely does it stop it completely. It is best to limit the pruning of the trees to avoid pushing new growth. If you must prune, it is best to do so in late fall to mid-winter. The pest is normally inactive then and any new growth you may get won’t be as susceptible. While it is unsightly, the damage normally isn’t that detrimental to a healthy tree and the time & money spent on prevention or eradication would not be worth it. Make sure you remove all dropped leaves and any clippings from pruning and place them either in a closed trash can or a bag you can close. This helps prevent any possible insects on these items to get back to the plant.

ANTS! I have had numerous people come to me upset because they see ants in their plants, running up and down the branches and leaves. They think the ants are killing their plants when in fact ants are actually an indicator that you have another issue. This could be mites, aphids, scale or mealy bugs, to name a few. The ants are actually harvesting the “honeydew” or excrement from these pests or feeding on the eggs or larvae. The ants become a problem when they protect the insects from predators that would normally take care of these insects. By eliminating the initial problem (the mites, etc) you will remove the ant problem. They won’t stay where they don’t have food.

A note on using beneficial insects: If you try to use them preventively you will probably fail. They will only remain if there is food for them to eat. (You wouldn’t go shopping at an empty grocery store, would you?) Wait until you actually see a problem before purchasing any beneficial insects, and then apply them as directed. Some beneficial insects, like ladybugs, need to be released in the evening so they don’t automatically fly away. You could also lure beneficial insects into your garden by planting a diverse palette of plants. If you only plant one or two species of plants all over your yard, you run the risk of losing them to an invasion of pests or being wiped out by disease particular to that plant. The healthier your plants are and the more variety you have, the chances are you will have fewer pest problems.

I know it seems a bit counterintuitive to allow pests to live in your garden, but aside from the damage they may be doing, you will also be feeding the beneficial insects which in turn feed larger animals (birds).  This brings diversity to your yard that is essential to healthy plants. It’s all part of the food chain!

Mary

A good reference book is Insect, Disease & Weed I.D. Guide by Jill Jesiolowski Cebenko & Deborah L. Martin as editors. It is published by Rodale Press

Some chemical controllers:

Bayer Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control - Systemic

Bayer Tree & Shrub Insect Control - Systemic

Insecticidal soap

Beneficial insects- Check your local nursery for more info for your area

Ladybugs

Decollate snails – good for the brown snail & slugs. Decollates are carnivorous snails. Once done, they usually move on. If nothing is available for them to eat, they may resort to eating decomposing plant litter.

Mantid casings (Praying mantis cocoons, awesome for kids to observe! Each casing can hold upwards of 50+ mantid!)

Green Lacewings

Assassin Bugs

Stinkbug

Minute Pirate

Quaking Oat Grass pods

Touchy, Feel-y..... And Tasty? 

Many times we forget we have 5 senses; sight, smell, hearing, taste & touch. We garden for visual pleasure, the fragrance of flowers to delight our noses, birds for our auditory enjoyment and/or food for our bellies. We often forget however that touch is an important part of our world, especially when we were young. Kids reach for everything because they are initially tactile learners. Putting things in their mouth is another version of tactile learning (this is where a food garden would be awesome!)  However a sensory garden is not just for the sensory impaired or children...  I have a tendency to touch and smell just about any plant I come across. I do this because it helps imprint the plant in my brain; helps note any peculiarities that it may have in texture and smell. And yes, sometimes I taste them, but I am very careful and make sure I know what it is beforehand.

There are so many plants that have more qualities other than just “smelling good.” There are plants that are soft and fuzzy (Lamb’s Ears) some that rattle (Quaking Grass) and even sticky ones (Sage) that are safe for big or little fingers! You don’t have to change out your garden to incorporate tactile plants, just be cautious of where you incorporate them. If you are working with an existing bed, I recommend placing new plants in toward the front of the beds. That way you don’t have trampled plants and if you have some plants that can be less than friendly they won’t be a surprise to those fingers!

Even in winter, you can still have a tactile based garden. Not everything may go dormant but those that do, unless they have thorns, can be just as interesting. Bark is textured and may have color in it you didn’t notice when it is in leaf. Many have seed pods or dead flowers that have been left on that can be interesting.

Echeveria

You can use succulents. Note I said succulents, not cactus. The terms are often used interchangeably, but are different plants. You want to make sure you don’t use anything with spines, fingers of all sizes would be unhappy to have that encounter!  There are a variety of succulents that have smooth textures, rough ones, oddly shaped and there are even fuzzy ones! I would definitely monitor little hands with these as some are toxic if ingested and some have a sap that can cause a skin reaction.

Pond-less waterfall

Having a sensory garden doesn’t mean you have to be limited by plants. By all means, add wind chimes, bird baths, water fountains, pond or a pond-less waterfall to your tactile garden.  It adds another element and will attract birds, butterflies, moths, lizards to name a few. (Depending on where you live, maybe even rabbits, mice & coyotes so think it through!) If you have small children and don’t have to worry about the larger predators, I do recommend a pond-less waterfall. They are easy to maintain and since they don’t have any true depth, they can be safer for kids. You may need to replenish the gravel or rock in the “pond” area occasionally to keep it from getting any depth that may be dangerous. You can adjust these to be louder or softer, depending on the rock placement, the overhand of the waterfall and even the water pressure. More on that in another blog though!

Whether you intentionally plant a tactile garden, or realize that your current one is tactile they are enjoyable to many people on different levels. So go smell the roses, hug a tree and generally enjoy your garden space!

Suggested plants for a tactile garden:

 Lamb’s Ear – Stachys byzantia- furry leaves

Mint – Mentha (many varieties, check them all out…even chocolate!) Great smells, interesting and some familiar flavors

Quaking Grass – Briza maxima (Also known as Rattlesnake Grass due to its seed pods. They resemble the rattle on the rattlesnake.)

Fountain Grass – Pennisetum setaceum- soft “flowers” on the ends of the blades

Mexican Feather Grass – Nasella tenuissima – soft “flowers” on the ends of the blades

Lavender – Lavendula spp – Fragrant leaves on some, fragrant flowers on others. Slightly sticky plant overall but definitely not unpleasant

Nasturtium –Tropaeolum majus – Lightly grainy leaf, peppery smell and edible leaf and flower

Ferns – Just about any variety – some soft, some fairly stiff and others curly edged or smooth

Bush Strawflower – Bracteantha bracteata- flowers actually feel & sound like straw

Wooly Thyme – Thymus pseudolanuginosus – slightly fuzzy & smells good

Fennel – Foeniculum vulgare – Fronds are soft & airy feeling and they taste pretty good

Dill – Anthum graveolens – soft fronds and an good smell & taste

Marigold – Tagetes spp – strong earthy smell (one of my favorites!)

Kalanchoe behariensis –some are a bit fuzzy, some are smooth

Hens & Chicks – Sempervivum –smooth leave with just a bit of a point at the tip

Edible Sage – Salvia officinalis – slightly sticky with the sage smell and taste

Ornamental Sage – Salvia greggi, S. nemarosa, S. chamaedryoides, just to name a few!

 More sticky, smell of the leaf is pungent, some like it, others do not.

Alyssum -  Alyssum spp – small flower smells like honey

Philodendron – Philodendron selloum – large leaves, some with smooth texture, some with holes in the leave, some with ridges.

Chives – Allium schoenoprasum  - Same ones you can cook with, “blades” are smooth, the flower is a slightly fuzzy ball, and both blade & flower is edible

Calla Lily – Zantedeschia aethiopeca – Smooth petal with a pistil that is soft and pliable. Will leave pollen on your fingers

Gardenia – Gardenia jasminioides – smooth petals, great scent

Woolly Yarrow – Achillea tomentosa – leaves are slightly fuzzy, aromatic and flowers are an interesting texture

Elephant Ears – Alocasia – large smooth leave some with ridged veins, some with wavy edges

Basil – Ocimum basilicum – textured leaf, great smell, taste is strong, but good

Oregano – Origanum vulgare – small leaf, good scent and taste

Sweet Marjoram – Origanum marjorana – similar to oregano, bit of a different scent 

and taste

Rosemary –  Rosemary officinalis – strong upright texture, small cylindrical leaf and pungent aroma & taste

Chenille plant – Acalypha hispida – flower is an interesting long shape with a soft texture

Fuchsia – Fuchsia hybrid – Also known as Lady’s Earring – flowers are smooth, but with an interesting shape, some have a light fragrance

Fruit trees – I don’t recommend Citrus as many have thorns.

Strawberries – Fruit of course!

Blueberries – Again, the fruit!


Many of the berry vines have small thorns so I did not list them here. They can be used, just be cautious and use them more for sight & taste than touch.

Corn – The actual edible variety. The stalks grow tall, somewhat coarse, the rustle of the leaves and the feel of the corn itself is altogether interesting.

Bamboo – the plant’s leaves make an interesting sound and the bark is smooth

I DO NOT RECOMMEND TOMATOES. THEIR FOLIAGE CAN BE TOXIC TO ANIMALS (AND TO HUMANS IN LARGER QUANTITIES.) THEY ARE PART OF THE DEADLY NIGHTSHADE FAMILY 

The After Hours Garden…..     

     

So you think because its dark when you get out of work you can’t enjoy a beautiful garden? What if you had a garden that worked with your late schedule?  It can happen with a moonlight garden! Imagine being able to relax in your garden after a day’s commotion: you’ve got a glass of wine and are taking in the tranquility of your garden enjoying the fragrance and beauty of the flowers in the lower light. This type of garden consists of plants with flowers and foliage in whites, grays, pastels and blue greens (a list of possible plants are at the end of this posting) which are easy to see in the light of the moon or even by ambient light from nearby fixtures. Street lights, porch lights or even landscape lighting can create that relaxing or even romantic ambience you’ve been looking for.

A moonlight garden is one of the easiest to plant because you can incorporate it into any existing landscape. No need to tear out what’s already there (who doesn’t like to save money??) just add a little extra flair with a few new plants. Just make sure the new plants and existing plants in the bed have the same requirements for sun or shade and water.

Hummingbird hawk moth

By planting a moonlight garden you will see some critters that come out at night to feed or pollinate the plants. You might see the sphinx or hawk moth, the Luna moth as well as some bats, fireflies (depending on your region) and a range of night birds. Consider adding paving stones or boulders if appropriate and a source of water; such as a shallow bird bath or a couple of plant saucers filled with water. This gives your night crew a little help in their work!

                                                                                                  

The best way to get started would be to first, figure out where you may want your seating area to be. Look at the existing plantings and decide where you can incorporate some new plants and mark those areas; I recommend using something light colored because you will come back out at night to view this area again and you want to be able to see where the new plants may go in. You may need to relocate some existing plants to get the effect you want. Once you have your design, the next step is to purchase your plants and dig them in. (The fun part & one of my favorite!)

Now, this doesn’t mean you can’t start a whole new planting bed to create your moonlight garden. That’s even easier to do! You can choose which plants you want, place them where they are most aesthetically pleasing to you, step back to view the effect and then dig them in! As always, make sure the plants meet the existing light & water of that area.

  

The use of fragrant plants is important to the overall effect too. Sitting outside, sipping your favorite refreshment and smelling rose,honeysuckle or my favorite – Night blooming Jessamine, can be a very relaxing experience. Just the thing when a trip to the spa is just not on the agenda!

Even if you only incorporate a few plants, it still makes your garden a 24/7 kind of place! Involve the kids and add a few touches of whimsy to the moonlight garden. How about a couple of dancing toad statues? Or garden gnomes? There are also some interesting garden lights that operate by solar panels*, they light up just enough to see and lend a little light to see your plantings.

Whatever you do, enjoy the process and your imagination is the limit. Your garden can be your own “staycation destination!”

*Check out these websites for some interesting garden art

www.gardeners.com

www.gardenfun.com

 “Moonlight” plants to check out

Artemisia -“Powis Castle” Gorgeous silver foliage, kind of feathery. The leaves have an interesting scent, another favorite of mine

Evening primrose – Oenothera biennis- Pretty flowered groundcover, can be invasive, so check with your nursery about the varieties in your area.

Honeysuckle – Lonicera japonica- a climbing vine needs some sort of support if you don’t want it trailing on the ground.

Nightblooming Jessamine – Cestrum nocturnum * a note of caution: this plant can be overwhelming for some people. Its fragrance has been known to travel over a few blocks. There is a variety with pinkish purple flowers that has a kind of rubbery fragrance, I don’t recommend it.

Lamb’s Ear – Stachys byzantia – silvery soft leaves with a pink or yellow flower.  I prefer it for its foliage rather than flowers.

Lavender – Lavendula angustofolia –“Hidcote” has silvery foliage so it will stand out more. The soft lavender flowers are a plus.

Nicotiana – Nicotiana sylvestris or S. alata- These two varieties are the most fragrant, but also pretty tall (4-6’) so I recommend either towards the back of your garden or if you have it in an open area, towards the middle.

Roses – white, pastel pink, lavender, yellow are good colors, another good way to add fragrance into your garden. Make sure prior to purchasing that they do have fragrance. Some growers sacrifice scent for unique coloring.

Impatiens – Use the lighter colors. These are shade annuals in most areas so be aware you will lose them in a season.

Angel’s Trumpet – Brugmansia versicolor – Gorgeous huge trumpet shaped blossoms that are fragrant evening and early morning.

Also look for trees with silvery blue foliage such as acacias, pines or junipers  or with variegated leaf like the ficus r.a.”Variegata; Japanese maple such as “Butterfly”

 bulbs like Iris, Gladiola, and Ixia can be used for a dramatic effect. Don’t forget vines like Potato vine, Clematis, Passionflower, bougainvillea and trumpet vines. Even groundcovers like Gazania & Snow-in-Summer work well.  Variegated foliage like Hostas, Silver Dragon Mondo grass to name a few.  Even succulents & cactus can work in your moonlight garden.